UIAA MOUNTAIN HIKING SKILLS - in the high atlas mountains with bryn Walking

MOROCCO: DECEMBER 1ST TO 7TH 2024 - UIAA Mountain Hiking Skills

As part of an ongoing training programme at the Kasbah du Toubkal, Helen Menhinick of Bryn Walking and I travelled into the High Atlas Mountains of Morocco to deliver our third UIAA Mountain Hiking Skills course to local Berber Mountain Guides.
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After a night at the LHR T2/T3 Hilton Garden Inn we flew to Marrakech via Lisbon with TAP Air Portugal (due to non-availability of BA flights) and arrived at the Kasbah du Toubkal in time for dinner on December 2nd.

After leaving the airport we'd driven into central Marrakech to collect Latifa Asselouf, a very well qualified mountain guide with whom we work on the courses that we deliver at the Kasbah du Toubkal. Latifa is one of the few women mountain guides in the High Atlas Mountains of Morocco - she is a pleasure to work with. 

Helen's Daily Comments:
The funniest bit of the day was Ahmed holding up a client collection sign 'Helen Menhinick'. We always expect 'Alan Ward', so I felt very important.
​Great to be back up in Imlil, so many familiar faces and a very warm welcome at the Kasbah.

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Day 1 - UIAA MHS 

Day 1 of this 5-day course centres around the Kasbah du Toubkal (alt. 1820m) with a morning session for theory of Mountain Hiking Skills and then a 4hr walk higher up the Imlil Valley to Aremd.

Today introduced the mountain guides to working with maps (1:25000 and 1:50000) and compasses and good practice skills as defined by the UIAA syllabus for this course. Throughout the course the guides would carry two group shelters and two First Aid kits. The group shelters were demonstrated on a grassy field above Aremd. The Kasbah is equipped with group shelters and appropriate First Aid kits for the guides to use but I'm not really convinced this happens.

Before leaving Aremd one of the guides, Hamid Ait Lmouden, invited the group into his home, a small trekking lodge, for traditional tea and snacks before descending back to the Kasbah. The views from his terrace looking towards Mt Toubkal (4167m) were quite spectacular.

Helen's Daily Comments:
​A lovely walk to get to know the guides. All very experienced in the High Atlas Mountains and fun to be with. Our driver Ahmed happened to pass by on a motorbike on the bridge at Aremd - for a moment I thought Alan had a lift back. It was very funny and made a great photo.

COURSE CONTENT DAY 1: Introduction - Structure of Mountain Hiking Skills Training Scheme & Representative Bodies - Mountain Hazards - Mountain Environment - Maps & Compass - Navigation - Route Planning - Personal Equipment - Emergency Procedures 

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Day 2 -  UIAA MHS 

We set off after breakfast and soon left the Kasbah and Imlil behind. Helen demonstrated pacing and timing skills and in pairs, the guides took turns to lead a section to specific objectives along the trail.

Lunch was on the Tizi n'Mzik (2480m) and was the full blown Moroccan trekking lunch with quite a variety of interesting local foods. Interestingly, Morocco is the only place in the world where I eat salads for lunch!

After lunch, with guides navigating, we descended steeply to the badly earthquake damaged village of Tizi Oussem in the Azzenden Valley. From there we caught a "bus" organised by Latifa Asselouf. Latifa works with us on all the courses we deliver at the Kasbah du Toubkal and is a great help with translation. The "bus" was quite vintage but saved us 4km on tarmac to our lodge for the night at Ait Aissa.

Before dinner we went for a day into night navigation exercise above the lodge. Dinner was a real treat as our guide candidates had arranged to have a goat sacrificed and prepared for a ceremonial dinner.

Helen's Daily Comments:
​After a long day (much discussion on route) we had to wait a couple of hours for our bags because, from the tizi, one of the mules had run all the way back to Imlil. It was shocking to see all the devastating damage from the earthquake, over a year on and our second visit since. Never-the-less, you are never far from the sound of a cockerel or mule/donkey  - life goes on with commendable resilience.
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​COURSE CONTENT DAY 2: Maps & Compass - Navigation - Mountain Walk (8hrs over 2500m Tizi) - Day into Night Navigation (2hrs)

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​DAY 3 - UIAA MHS

After a good breakfast we left the lodge behind and climbed up to a spur at about 2000m for some navigation practical training before pairs of the guides led us up to the Tizi n'Oudite (2220m). 

Beyond the Tizi n'Oudite (2220m) we followed a newly constructed precipice path which followed the 2000m contour (undulating slightly) to our lunch stop for another traditional Moroccan lunch. From there, a steeply descending path led us back into Imlil but much care was needed on this descent. It was very dry, loose and non existent in places with steep drops.

A series of new trails are appearing in the areas around Imlil. The mountain guides supervise their construction with local farmers providing the labour.

On route back into Imlil, Lahcen (Manager of the Kasbah du Toubkal) hosted a Berber Tea Ceremony at his guest house in Arghan, where Helen as the honoured guest, was taught how to brew and serve traditional local tea in local costume. There was much food offered to the group so, back at the Kasbah, Helen and I opted out of dinner and we were served snacks in our lounge. The name of the village 'Arghan' means 'where the sun shines first - warmest village in the valley'. It really does get the sun at the first opportunity and keeps it all day.

Helen's Daily Comments:
​I was surprised how much the path had deteriorated on the descent and so I made changes for the planned route in January after discussions with Latifa and Alan. Another enjoyable day. Great to see that the guides picked up all the litter, bagged it and carried it out with them.

COURSE CONTENT DAY 3: Maps & Compass - Navigation - Mountain Walk (6hrs) - Movement on Steeper Terrain and Broken Ground (2hrs)

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Day 4 - uiaa mhs

We'd discussed with the group how they'd best like to spend this last practical session and it was agreed to remain in the grounds of the Kasbah du Toubkal for final skills sessions on the core elements of the UIAA syllabus.

Helen's Daily Comments:
​A great round up of skills and also covering remaining parts of the syllabus. The group were so receptive and eager. Some lengthy discussions which I hope were beneficial.

COURSE CONTENT DAY 4: Maps & Compass - Navigation - Weather

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day 5 - UIAA MHS

This final day of the UIAA MHS course would see candidates complete the UIAA online assessment and certification process before completing the REC Trekking First Aid course (6/8hrs). After the course we were all invited to Mohamed Ait Idar's house for tea where traditional mint tea and cakes were served.

Helen's Daily Comments:
​Showing all the guides how you can look after yourself or save a life in the environment they work in was a pleasure. It is important to include humour when teaching and learning important skills like this - they will remember our course for sure. We handed out the Sigg bottles which we had raised money for in the UK prior to our visit and I handed out the Bryn Walking keyrings that my son had made especially.

COURSE CONTENT DAY 5: UIAA MHS Online Administration, Assessment & Certification - REC Trekking First Aid (6/8hrs)

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december 8th - (Helen's birthday)

Today had been scheduled as a REC Life Saver First Aid (4hr) course for staff at the Kasbah but it appeared that there were no staff who required this.

Helen and Latifa decided to go for a walk whilst I remained at the Kasbah to catch up on administration and to edit photographs and start writing my blog.

​Their walk would be to get a ride from Imlil up to the Tizi n'Tamatert (2302m) and then descend to Tinerhourhine to follow the Inane valley downstream before crossing the river and climbing up to the Tizi n'Aguersioual (2050m). They then descended back into the Imlil Valley before returning to the Kasbah. One of the guides who we met last year was passing and gave them a lift on the road up to Imlil. This is a good acclimatisation walk for an interesting day before heading up to Mt Toubkal (4167m).

Helen's birthday dinner was an enjoyable experience with gifts and a nice cake to end the day off.

Helen's Daily Comments:
​This day was supposed to be kept under wraps, so to speak, but there was a leak amongst the team... What a special day it turned out to be. A fabulous walk with Latifa. Fantastic, breathtaking scenery and everyone we met in the villages wanted us to come in for tea. Lahcen pulled out all the stops and had one of the staff make a delicious birthday cake which we shared with the other guests and the Kasbah staff. Unbeknown to me a note had been on the wall of reception all day, saying 'Happy Birthday Helen' - it was written in arabic so that I would be none the wiser - very funny.

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december 9th - 4hr REC first aid course

After breakfast, Helen and Latifa walked up to Aremd to visit one of the Imlil shop keepers and his family, while I continued with administration and blog writing.

After a lunch on the new terrace overlooking Imlil it was time for a 4hr Lifesaving First Aid course for 12 EFA Housemothers. Education For All (EFA).

​We'd been a bit concerned about how this course would be but Latifa Aliza from EFA and the 11 Housemothers were a pleasure to work with, they were fun and very professional throughout the course. 

Helen's Daily Comments:
My experience with Ibrihim, the shop keeper, and the introduction to his family I shall always remember. To sit in their family kitchen eating a shared plate of rice pudding for breakfast, listening to their happy chatter and laughter was incredibly special. His father is a very well respected elder in the community and I was honoured to be served tea by him and share delicious Moroccan breads.
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We were quite apprehensive about the final first aid course for the house mothers; we didn't need to be - they were all great fun to work with; keen to learn and to listen. It was a pleasure to meet them all - a wonderful and interesting bunch of women.

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december 10th - Start of journey back to uk

The day for Helen and I to travel to Marrakech for one night at the Riad Bleu where we'd previously stayed. I like staying here but there are a few issues which need to be resolved, not least being the cold reception area where breakfast is served. Ideally, rooms would be fitted with a kettle and brew kit.

Before leaving Imlil we browsed the shops and enjoyed a final coffee with our driver and one of our mountain guides.

We spent the afternoon in the narrow streets, stopping for lunch and browsing the souks, before arriving at the main square (Jemaael-Fnaa) where we enjoyed coffee on a roof top cafe. We then returned to the Riad Bleu for an hour or so before heading back to the main square for something to eat.

On our return to the Riad Bleu, Mike McHugo (Discover limited/Kasbah du Toubkal) had arrived with a friend so we spent an hour or so catching up before bedtime.

Helen's Daily Comments:
​Always sad to leave Imlil - 'til next time. 
I was pleased to see Marrakesh looking and feeling much more like normal after all the extensive damage caused by the earthquake (September 2023).

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december 11th -  final leg of journey

We were up and about to have breakfast with Mike and his friend Andy but one of my criticisms of the Riad Bleu is how cold the breakfast area was - warm clothing was vital for our survival!

Our airport transfer dropped us off at the airport and we were soon checked in and through formalities with ease.

​Our TAP flight took off on time and after a short transfer time in Lisbon, the next flight took us into LHR T2 from where we drove home to Cardiff.

Helen's Daily Comments:
​TAP is a great airline but quite an exhausting journey home with a transfer in Lisbon.

uiaa mountain hiking skills - candidate feedback

rec trekking first aid - candidate feedback

REC LIFESAVER FIRST AID - candidate feedback

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A big thank you from us!

Photo credit - Abdellatif Azdour

We would like to thank Mike McHugo for this unique opportunity, and huge thanks to the mountains guides, the house mothers, the staff at the Kasbah du Toubkal and the people of the Imlil valley - you welcome us in to your culture, your lives and your homes and we treasure every moment.
​Alan and Helen