September 25th to 28th with Helen Menhinick of Bryn Walking and six participants with myself, ( [email protected]) as Assistant Leader. This was a route I'd been thinking about over a number of years so Helen and I planned this event together, based at the excellent Beili Neuadd Bunkhouse just outside Rhayder in Mid Wales. The Monk's Trod in Mid Wales traces a lonely route across 24 miles over remote hills and moorland from Strata Florida to Abbey Cwm Hir. The Monk's Trod was never transformed into a more solid track or road, so simply fell out of use and navigation skills are essential to safely follow the route these days. The map above is one example of the excellent interpretation panels at Strata Florida, and two monks are depicted walking towards the scenic Teifi Pools to the east. Key equipment used by Alan: Rohan Designs Ventus Waterproof Jacket (3-layer Barricade) + Thule AllTrail 45L Rucksack + Meindle Tonale GTX Walking Boots Key equipment used by Helen: Rohan Designs Vertex Waterproof Jacket (3-layer Barricade) + Deuter Air Comfort SL Futura Pro 34L Rucksack + Salomon Boots Quest Element. I travelled from Cardiff to Rhayder via Brecon to pick up one of the participants before meeting Helen in Rhayder for the final short drive to the Beili Neuadd Bunkhouse. The main bunkhouse consisted of three bunkrooms, each of which were en-suite, a drying room and a fair sized kitchen and dining area. The remaining participants arrived by about 6pm ready for the traditional BBQ which are part of the Bryn Walking events. I'd purchased sirloin steaks on behalf of everyone and an enjoyable evening followed with steaks prepared to order which wasn't easy for seven steaks in order that we could all eat together. Day 1: Strata Florida to Pont ar Elen - 17.4km We drove in Helen's VW Transporter to Pont ar Elan to meet a hired 8 seater taxi for the one hour transfer across that area of Mid Wales to Strate Florida. The drive was mostly along single width roads passing the occasional isolated farms and through ancient oak woodlands. Arriving at Strata Florida we enjoyed a half-hour to explore the site, owned and managed by CADW. A short drive eastwards took us to the start of our walk at the small parking area close to Tyncwm Farm and our minibus left to return to it's base. A group photo was taken and we started on The Monk's Trod soon after crossing a footbridge to a point where the Cambrian Way mid-point is reached and signed with a commemorative bench which looked new. The bridleway followed the Nant Egnant up to the dam at Llyn Egnant, one of the lonely Teifi Lakes. After a short break we continued eastwards passing Bryn Llyn Egnant before crossing the remote and rough moorland to Claerwen Farm and just beyond we stopped for lunch. The weather during the morning had been mostly dry but this wasn't to last. Lunch was dry and sheltered but soon after we were battling against wind and rain. Climbing the track over Esgair Gwar-y-Ty and Esgair Cywion to a 497m spot height the route then headed eastwards through the Claerwen National Nature Reserve to Llwn Cerrigllwydion Uchaf, for several kilometers, often in heavy rain, before arriving back at Pont ar Elan. This was the longest day of our Monk's Trod route and quite chalenging due to the heavy rain experienced in the afternoon, After a short drive we were back at the cosy Beili Neuadd Bunkhouse. Helen's Daily Log: "Most of the walk is a definite track but unfortunately due to some of it being a byway open to all traffic it is overused by motor vehicles and seriously rutted and flooded. I knew how and where to avoid the worst parts. Our group were strong walkers and well equipped, so with the weather against us too, we battled through the day and across the remote moorland in the Monk’s foot steps to Pont ar Elan." For further information about Strata Florida, please visit: cadw.gov.wales/visit/places-to-visit/strata-florida-abbey CADW describes the site: "The grand medieval abbey where generations of Welsh princes are buried. The abbey of Strata Florida – Latin for ‘Vale of Flowers’ – has stood on lush meadows beside the banks of the river Teifi since 1201. It was established by white-robed Cistercian monks as part of a movement that spread like a tidal wave across the whole of western Europe in the early Middle Ages. Soon it became the most famous church in Wales after St David's – a place of pilgrimage and a linchpin of Welsh culture. There are unmistakable echoes of greatness among the ruins. The carved west doorway into the abbey offers an epic view down the nave to where the high altar once stood. You can still see some of the incredible decorated tiles that would have covered the floors of the church. Griffins, birds and fleurs-de-lis surround the enigmatic ‘Man with the Mirror’. This 14th-century figure dressed in a doublet and close-fitting hood is reckoned to be a symbol of vanity. Strata Florida, or Ystrad Fflur as local people know it, is the final resting place for generations of medieval Welsh princes. The great poet Dafydd ap Gwilym is said to be buried under a yew in the churchyard. No wonder it’s been called ‘the Westminster Abbey of Wales’." Day 2: Pont ar Elan to Beili Neuadd - 16.8km After driving back to Pont ar Elan we climbed a faint path up to Sarn Geufron before following the minor road eastwards to the bridleway which led down to the ancient ford at Rhyd Garreg-lwyd and what looked like a collapsed clapper bridge. After crossing the Nant y Sarn we rested at the old farmstead of Lluest-pen-rhiw where the old stone field boundary was quite unlike anything I'd seen before. Crossing Llofftyddgleision we descended through Coed Nannerth-fawr to cross the A470 into the Gilfach Farm Nature Reserve. The reserve is well managed by the Radnorshire Wildlife Trust and features excellent interpretation boards and stone carvings as we made our way up to the old farm which is now a simple Visitor Centre where the interpretation and old farm relics give an idea of what farming would have been like many years ago in such a remote valley where there are still signs of the old railway line which passed through the area. Gilfach now has 4 environmental designations: Scheduled Ancient Monument Site of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI) Special Area of Conservation (SAC) Special Protection Areas (SPA) It was at the Visitor Centre where I fell on slippery slabs and days later my ribs where I landed are still sore. Apparently one of the group saw me fall and was heard to yell "He's down!" We followed the Wye Valley Walk away from Gilfach Farm, after which the route back to Beili Neuadd was along quiet lanes and across fields.Between Cwmithig and Beili Neuadd the public footpath was obstructed but we climbed fences carefully and paid close attention to grazing cows which looked quite intimidating. We spent the evening in the Crown Hotel in Rhayder where the offerings weren't to everyone's satisfaction and I wouldn't return there. After getting back to Beili Neuadd, Helen and I drove over to Abbey Cwmhir to position her VW Transporter where the walk would end tomorrow. Helen's Daily Log: "Gilfach National NatureReserve is the highlight of the day. Somewhere I will never tire of – it truly has a very good feeling about it. Being able to look back from the Wye valley walk as we left Gilfach, and see where the Monk’s Trod comes down Moelfryn was quite spectacular and satisfying." Day 3: Beili Neuadd Bunkhouse to Abbey Cwmhir - 10.8km The first hour or so of the walk was along quiet country lanes, and only a short section off road. This is by no means the definitive Monk's route so we decided, at the highest point to stay high and take the path on the boundary of Cregiau NRW Forest, along the ridge of Camlo Hill to a bronze age cairn before gradually descending Rhiw Gam into the Cwm Hir valley. We thought this was just as likely to have been the route of the Monks. Reaching the boundary of the forest we stopped for lunch just before the road near Wenallt Barn. After lunch we walked the final kilometer into Abbey Cwmhir to where the VW Transporter was parked at the village hall. We met our local guide for a tour at 1.30pm and the tour was long and saw us visit the church, Abbey Cwmhir Hall and the ancient ruins of the old abbey. Back at Beili Neuadd Bunkhouse we packed, said our farewells and set off for home. Helen's Daily Log: "On reaching Abbey Cwmhir we met Julian Lovell who gave us a tour of the church and abbey ruins. His knowledge of the history of Abbey Cwmhir was amazing and it made all the difference to hear it from someone who is passionate about their subject." The Monk's Trod event by Helen Menhinick of Bryn Walking was meticulously planned and extremely enjoyable for me - many thanks Helen! And thank you to all the participants who took on every challenge whether it be boggy train, driving rain or barbed wire fences, and still were all smiling at the end of the event. Helen, "....and thank you to all the participants who took on every challenge whether it be boggy terrain, driving rain or barbed wire fences, and still were all smiling at the end of the event." Wikipidia writes: Cwmhir Abbey (Welsh: Abaty Cwm Hir), near Llandrindod Wells in Powys, is a Welsh Cistercian monastery founded in 1176 by Cadwallon ap Madog. A spurious tale was later recorded that the abbey was founded in 1143 by Meredudd ap Maelgwn at Ty-faenor, and then refounded at the present location near the village of Abbeycwmhir in 1176.
The Abbey Cwmhir Heritage Trust: For further information please visit: abbeycwmhir.org/ "Abbey Cwmhir Heritage Trust’s purpose is to advance the understanding of the Cistercian Monastery at Abbeycwmhir, Radnorshire by providing information, events, research opportunities and continued learning in order to reveal the importance of this site in Welsh history and culture. We host a range of regular events such as talks and tours of the Abbey. We also have a major community heritage project ‘Demystifying the Abbey’. The project involves a range of aspects of Abbeycwmhir’s heritage such as collecting oral memories, desk research and field research into the sacred landscape within which Cwmhir Abbey sits and we are fortunate to have an extensive number of volunteers/researchers active in taking aspects of this project forward."
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2021 OnwardsFollowing on from retirement, more time will be available for hill and mountain walking on a personal basis with friends. Categories |