As part of an ongoing training programme at the Kasbah du Toubkal, Helen Menhinick of Bryn Walking and I travelled into the High Atlas Mountains of Morocco to deliver our third UIAA Mountain Hiking Skills course to local Berber Mountain Guides.
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After a night at the LHR T2/T3 Hilton Garden Inn we flew to Marrakech via Lisbon with TAP Air Portugal (due to non-availability of BA flights) and arrived at the Kasbah du Toubkal in time for dinner on December 2nd.

After leaving the airport we'd driven into central Marrakech to collect Latifa Asselouf, a very well qualified mountain guide with whom we work on the courses that we deliver at the Kasbah du Toubkal. Latifa is one of the few women mountain guides in the High Atlas Mountains of Morocco - she is a pleasure to work with. 

Helen's Daily Comments:
The funniest bit of the day was Ahmed holding up a client collection sign 'Helen Menhinick'. We always expect 'Alan Ward', so I felt very important.
​Great to be back up in Imlil, so many familiar faces and a very warm welcome at the Kasbah.

Day 1 of this 5-day course centres around the Kasbah du Toubkal (alt. 1820m) with a morning session for theory of Mountain Hiking Skills and then a 4hr walk higher up the Imlil Valley to Aremd.

Today introduced the mountain guides to working with maps (1:25000 and 1:50000) and compasses and good practice skills as defined by the UIAA syllabus for this course. Throughout the course the guides would carry two group shelters and two First Aid kits. The group shelters were demonstrated on a grassy field above Aremd. The Kasbah is equipped with group shelters and appropriate First Aid kits for the guides to use but I'm not really convinced this happens.

Before leaving Aremd one of the guides, Hamid Ait Lmouden, invited the group into his home, a small trekking lodge, for traditional tea and snacks before descending back to the Kasbah. The views from his terrace looking towards Mt Toubkal (4167m) were quite spectacular.

Helen's Daily Comments:
​A lovely walk to get to know the guides. All very experienced in the High Atlas Mountains and fun to be with. Our driver Ahmed happened to pass by on a motorbike on the bridge at Aremd - for a moment I thought Alan had a lift back. It was very funny and made a great photo.

COURSE CONTENT DAY 1: Introduction - Structure of Mountain Hiking Skills Training Scheme & Representative Bodies - Mountain Hazards - Mountain Environment - Maps & Compass - Navigation - Route Planning - Personal Equipment - Emergency Procedures 

We set off after breakfast and soon left the Kasbah and Imlil behind. Helen demonstrated pacing and timing skills and in pairs, the guides took turns to lead a section to specific objectives along the trail.

Lunch was on the Tizi n'Mzik (2480m) and was the full blown Moroccan trekking lunch with quite a variety of interesting local foods. Interestingly, Morocco is the only place in the world where I eat salads for lunch!

After lunch, with guides navigating, we descended steeply to the badly earthquake damaged village of Tizi Oussem in the Azzenden Valley. From there we caught a "bus" organised by Latifa Asselouf. Latifa works with us on all the courses we deliver at the Kasbah du Toubkal and is a great help with translation. The "bus" was quite vintage but saved us 4km on tarmac to our lodge for the night at Ait Aissa.

Before dinner we went for a day into night navigation exercise above the lodge. Dinner was a real treat as our guide candidates had arranged to have a goat sacrificed and prepared for a ceremonial dinner.

Helen's Daily Comments:
​After a long day (much discussion on route) we had to wait a couple of hours for our bags because, from the tizi, one of the mules had run all the way back to Imlil. It was shocking to see all the devastating damage from the earthquake, over a year on and our second visit since. Never-the-less, you are never far from the sound of a cockerel or mule/donkey  - life goes on with commendable resilience.
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​COURSE CONTENT DAY 2: Maps & Compass - Navigation - Mountain Walk (8hrs over 2500m Tizi) - Day into Night Navigation (2hrs)

After a good breakfast we left the lodge behind and climbed up to a spur at about 2000m for some navigation practical training before pairs of the guides led us up to the Tizi n'Oudite (2220m). 

Beyond the Tizi n'Oudite (2220m) we followed a newly constructed precipice path which followed the 2000m contour (undulating slightly) to our lunch stop for another traditional Moroccan lunch. From there, a steeply descending path led us back into Imlil but much care was needed on this descent. It was very dry, loose and non existent in places with steep drops.

A series of new trails are appearing in the areas around Imlil. The mountain guides supervise their construction with local farmers providing the labour.

On route back into Imlil, Lahcen (Manager of the Kasbah du Toubkal) hosted a Berber Tea Ceremony at his guest house in Arghan, where Helen as the honoured guest, was taught how to brew and serve traditional local tea in local costume. There was much food offered to the group so, back at the Kasbah, Helen and I opted out of dinner and we were served snacks in our lounge. The name of the village 'Arghan' means 'where the sun shines first - warmest village in the valley'. It really does get the sun at the first opportunity and keeps it all day.

Helen's Daily Comments:
​I was surprised how much the path had deteriorated on the descent and so I made changes for the planned route in January after discussions with Latifa and Alan. Another enjoyable day. Great to see that the guides picked up all the litter, bagged it and carried it out with them.

COURSE CONTENT DAY 3: Maps & Compass - Navigation - Mountain Walk (6hrs) - Movement on Steeper Terrain and Broken Ground (2hrs)

We'd discussed with the group how they'd best like to spend this last practical session and it was agreed to remain in the grounds of the Kasbah du Toubkal for final skills sessions on the core elements of the UIAA syllabus.

Helen's Daily Comments:
​A great round up of skills and also covering remaining parts of the syllabus. The group were so receptive and eager. Some lengthy discussions which I hope were beneficial.

COURSE CONTENT DAY 4: Maps & Compass - Navigation - Weather

This final day of the UIAA MHS course would see candidates complete the UIAA online assessment and certification process before completing the REC Trekking First Aid course (6/8hrs). After the course we were all invited to Mohamed Ait Idar's house for tea where traditional mint tea and cakes were served.

Helen's Daily Comments:
​Showing all the guides how you can look after yourself or save a life in the environment they work in was a pleasure. It is important to include humour when teaching and learning important skills like this - they will remember our course for sure. We handed out the Sigg bottles which we had raised money for in the UK prior to our visit and I handed out the Bryn Walking keyrings that my son had made especially.

COURSE CONTENT DAY 5: UIAA MHS Online Administration, Assessment & Certification - REC Trekking First Aid (6/8hrs)

Today had been scheduled as a REC Life Saver First Aid (4hr) course for staff at the Kasbah but it appeared that there were no staff who required this.

Helen and Latifa decided to go for a walk whilst I remained at the Kasbah to catch up on administration and to edit photographs and start writing my blog.

​Their walk would be to get a ride from Imlil up to the Tizi n'Tamatert (2302m) and then descend to Tinerhourhine to follow the Inane valley downstream before crossing the river and climbing up to the Tizi n'Aguersioual (2050m). They then descended back into the Imlil Valley before returning to the Kasbah. One of the guides who we met last year was passing and gave them a lift on the road up to Imlil. This is a good acclimatisation walk for an interesting day before heading up to Mt Toubkal (4167m).

Helen's birthday dinner was an enjoyable experience with gifts and a nice cake to end the day off.

Helen's Daily Comments:
​This day was supposed to be kept under wraps, so to speak, but there was a leak amongst the team... What a special day it turned out to be. A fabulous walk with Latifa. Fantastic, breathtaking scenery and everyone we met in the villages wanted us to come in for tea. Lahcen pulled out all the stops and had one of the staff make a delicious birthday cake which we shared with the other guests and the Kasbah staff. Unbeknown to me a note had been on the wall of reception all day, saying 'Happy Birthday Helen' - it was written in arabic so that I would be none the wiser - very funny.

After breakfast, Helen and Latifa walked up to Aremd to visit one of the Imlil shop keepers and his family, while I continued with administration and blog writing.

After a lunch on the new terrace overlooking Imlil it was time for a 4hr Lifesaving First Aid course for 12 EFA Housemothers. Education For All (EFA).

​We'd been a bit concerned about how this course would be but Latifa Aliza from EFA and the 11 Housemothers were a pleasure to work with, they were fun and very professional throughout the course. 

Helen's Daily Comments:
My experience with Ibrihim, the shop keeper, and the introduction to his family I shall always remember. To sit in their family kitchen eating a shared plate of rice pudding for breakfast, listening to their happy chatter and laughter was incredibly special. His father is a very well respected elder in the community and I was honoured to be served tea by him and share delicious Moroccan breads.
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We were quite apprehensive about the final first aid course for the house mothers; we didn't need to be - they were all great fun to work with; keen to learn and to listen. It was a pleasure to meet them all - a wonderful and interesting bunch of women.

The day for Helen and I to travel to Marrakech for one night at the Riad Bleu where we'd previously stayed. I like staying here but there are a few issues which need to be resolved, not least being the cold reception area where breakfast is served. Ideally, rooms would be fitted with a kettle and brew kit.

Before leaving Imlil we browsed the shops and enjoyed a final coffee with our driver and one of our mountain guides.

We spent the afternoon in the narrow streets, stopping for lunch and browsing the souks, before arriving at the main square (Jemaael-Fnaa) where we enjoyed coffee on a roof top cafe. We then returned to the Riad Bleu for an hour or so before heading back to the main square for something to eat.

On our return to the Riad Bleu, Mike McHugo (Discover limited/Kasbah du Toubkal) had arrived with a friend so we spent an hour or so catching up before bedtime.

Helen's Daily Comments:
​Always sad to leave Imlil - 'til next time. 
I was pleased to see Marrakesh looking and feeling much more like normal after all the extensive damage caused by the earthquake (September 2023).

We were up and about to have breakfast with Mike and his friend Andy but one of my criticisms of the Riad Bleu is how cold the breakfast area was - warm clothing was vital for our survival!

Our airport transfer dropped us off at the airport and we were soon checked in and through formalities with ease.

​Our TAP flight took off on time and after a short transfer time in Lisbon, the next flight took us into LHR T2 from where we drove home to Cardiff.

Helen's Daily Comments:
​TAP is a great airline but quite an exhausting journey home with a transfer in Lisbon.

We would like to thank Mike McHugo for this unique opportunity, and huge thanks to the mountains guides, the house mothers, the staff at the Kasbah du Toubkal and the people of the Imlil valley - you welcome us in to your culture, your lives and your homes and we treasure every moment.
​Alan and Helen

Dad was stationed in Shanghai and Hong Kong before the outbreak of WW2 and ended up in Singapore. Details are sketchy to say the least but this is his story and my 2025  journey to follow in his footsteps, following the route he took to Padang in West Sumatra where he embarked on the SS Tinombo to  safely reach Columbo and on to Bombay.

​P.H. Ward’s Escape from Singapore
 
I left Singapore (with an official authorisation to do so, signed by my Brigade Commander, Brigadier F.H. Fraser, D.S.O. Commander 2nd Malaya Infantry Brigade) on the R.A.S.C. motor launch “Cecilia”, on the evening of Saturday 14th February 1942, with Brigadier Paris, Lt. Col. Douglas, IEME, S/Condr H.W. Hollins R.A.S.C. and approximately 42 others.

On Sunday 15th February, apart from encountering some British male civilians (Government employees we ascertained, whose morale was at rock bottom) aiming for Sumatra as were we, and a Japanese recce plane which gave us the “once over” but didn’t return, we passed a quiet day.

Brigadier Paris and Lt. Col. Douglas both die following enemy action ex-Padang. During those last few days in Singapore I had been been confined (quite literally – no telephone calls or any contact with the outside world allowed) inside the YMCA in Orchard Road. I had the nostalgic pleasure of visiting the YMCA in June 1979 and found that it hadn’t changed very much structurally as far as I could make out.
 
Note: Dad visited us whilst we were living in Singapore and I could easily have accompanied him on a similar journey to re-trace his steps but Dad never really talked about this episode in his life.

On reaching the coast of Sumatra, we sailed up the Djambi River to the town of Djambi (now spelt Jambi) where the kind and most helpful Dutch authorities exchanged our (by now) unsuitable launch for a flat-bottomed river craft and also gave us a goodly supply of provisions, (by this time we’d consumed all our tinned “M and V” {Meat and Veg} from Singapore) from a local godown.

​We continued to Muaratebo where we had a route march and tonsorial “treatment” by the local barber. The journey continued by boat, motorcoach and railway to Padang by way of Sawah Lunto. The journey by coach through the Padang Highlands was hair-raising and memorable for the wrongest of reasons.”
 
Brigadier Fraser escaped aboard the Dutch ship Rooseboom, which was sunk off Sumatra. Although he survived the sinking along with about 80 other passengers in one lifeboat, he did not survive the shocking 28-day ordeal of drifting 100 miles. There were only five survivors.
 
Note: Dad was lucky to have been issued a berth on a much slower and smaller vessel which, fortunately, was less likely to have been a satisfactory target for a Japanese submarine. We'll never know why Dad wasn't allowed a berth on the SS Rooseboom with the Argyll and Southerland Highlanders with whom he'd left Singapore before their overland crossing of Sumatra. Dad suggested he was required to stay in Padang to assist with administration duties.

After a few days in Padang, where elements of the A.I.F. seemed to be well established under the command of Major-General Gordon Bennett, we left round about the evening of 26th  February (I’m guessing, really) on the SS Tinombo, a Dutch East Indies coastal freighter more commonly seen on the Timor, Celibes, New Guinea run – that sort of area.

​On board we were allotted ‘hold’ accommodation and a supply of rice (only) for the voyage. We later learned, though not confirmed, that the ship had already been en route from Padang to Bombay, when she had been sent back to Padang on the orders of General Wavell in order to collect up ‘remnants’ (which included Dad).

We arrived in Bombay, as far as I can remember, around 14th March, after a brief call heightened by excellent sandwiches from some British ladies at the Transit Camp Colaba, where we were kitted out completely as we had all left Singapore with only what we stood up in, plus rifle and ammunition, and looked after exceedingly well, the R.A.S.C. and R.A.O.C. went to Agra to the vacant (Akbar Barracks) from where subsequent postings took place.
 
I have a map of my route through Sumatra. On arrival in India, I was ‘requested’ by GHQ to send a full report as a ‘Far East Straggler’ (for such we were officially designated for pay purposes etc. – well they had to call us something!)
 
Note: Later, Dad told us that when he was about to leave Singapore he gave his Bible (or Book of Common Prayer) to a soldier who had to stay behind. This soldier was captured by the Japanese. After the war Dad was in a Dentist’s waiting room in Bristol. He read in a magazine there, about a soldier who was captured at Singapore who was trying to contact a soldier who had given him a Bible before he left Singapore.  Dad made contact with this ex-soldier & it was the man he had given the Bible to. This man said that the Bible had helped him get through his incarceration with the Japanese. Dad said that he could keep the Bible.
 
He also told us that he was on a train near Agra with a fellow soldier. They were both smoking their pipes. When dad left the train, he forgot his pipe. Years later he was travelling on a train in England when he noticed a man smoking a familiar looking pipe. He asked the man where he got the pipe from and was told that he found it on a train in India during the Second World War. It was Dad’s pipe!

I found the above publication a fascinating read and gave me a greater insight into my Dad's escape to freedom. There were three references to the boat Cecilia:

Page 96: Another vessel at sea that night was a medium-sized yacht, the Cecilia, with Brigadier Paris on board together with some of his Argylls.

Page 131: When the officers learnt that General Percival was considering the possibility of surrender they made plans to save as many of their men as possible. Those believed to have escaped on the Cecilia included: Brigadier Paris with more of his Argylls including Major Angus McDonald, Captain Michael Blackwood and Private Hardy.

Page 195: Cecilia - Described as a motor launch but may have been a yacht sailed on February 15th with 44 selected passengers on board including the names mentioned above. Most of her passengers subsequently joined the ill-fated Rooseboom and drowned after the torpedo attack four days later.

This account of the struggle for survival after the sinking of the Rooseboom was based on survivor and Argyll and Sutherland Highlander Walter Gibson's book, The Boat and taken from his obituary in the Times On Line (April 27th 2005):
 
“On the third night out from Padang a torpedo struck the Rooseboom, which very soon capsized and sank, taking most of her 500 passengers with her and leaving only one lifeboat seaworthy. This boat, designed to hold 28, was now occupied by 80 of the 135 who had survived the sinking. The remainder clung to lifelines and floating debris.
 
The senior surviving soldier, Brigadier Paris, took charge of discipline in the boat, while informing the survivors that the Dutch captain of the Rooseboom, who had also survived, was in overall command. The best of discipline was futile in the face of the privations that now ensued. Men and women went mad with thirst. Many threw themselves overboard rather than face further suffering.
 
In Gibson’s account, a gang of renegade soldiers positioned themselves in the bows and at night systematically pushed the weaker survivors overboard to make the meagre rations go further, until attacked by the others and flung overboard themselves. Brigadier Paris died, hallucinating before he fell into his final coma. The Dutch captain was killed by one of his own engineers.

The numbers of the living dwindled rapidly. By the time the lifeboat fetched up on Sipora, a coral island off Sumatra (a mere 100 miles from their starting point of Padang), only Gibson, a Chinese girl, Doris Lin, with whom he had developed a bond during those terrible weeks, and three Javanese remained. One of the latter drowned in the surf as they tried to get ashore. The remaining Javanese disappeared. After a period being tended by natives Gibson and Doris Lin were found by patrolling Japanese. He was returned to Padang as a POW. He later learned that she had been shot as a spy by the Japanese.
[Taken from Wikipedia]

Portable Hyperbaric Chambers are capsules constructed of lightweight but very durable materials which are airtight  with a zipped entrance for the person to gain entry to it. They are considered to be bulky and heavy and not always carried to higher altitudes.

I believe all treks and expedition operating to a Very High Altitude (defined as 3500m – 5800m) should carry a portable hyperbaric chamber. Beyond high base camps though, they will be classed as bulky and heavy so the base camp is where they would be located on more technical and higher expedition routes.

I once had to use a portable hyperbaric chamber for a person who was very ill with severe AMS at Gokyo Lakes (5000m) and thankful that I had access to this equipment. We had oxygen available but it was a limited supply and didn't last the night. It kept him comfortable until the daylight medevac flight to Kathmandu where he was diagnosed with HAPE.

At an altitude of 5000m, the simulated altitude inside the PAC when pressurised is approximately 3250m. The guidelines for a person suffering from altitude related illnesses are: STOP - REST - TREAT - DESCEND. Often it is impossible to make a safe night time descent with the casualty so the portable hyperbaric chamber allows the casualty to achieve the descent requirement whilst waiting for a daylight medevac flight.

The portable hyperbaric chamber is inflated with a foot pump resulting in an increase in barometric pressure within the chamber for simulated descent which is monitored by utilising an altimeter inside the chamber.

The process is labour intensive as the foot pump is used every 5 seconds for the chamber to remain correctly inflated. Outside of the chamber, the casualty must be continuously monitored by another team member through the access window.

Portable hyperbaric chambers have been proven to treat all forms of altitude illness. A casualty can be removed temporarily during the night if required but the positive effects of being inside the chamber do not last long once outside of the chamber.

​Descent is always the most important factor to consider.

The following advice applies to portable hyperbaric chambers:

1. The portable hyperbaric chamber needs to be on a tough groundsheet to protect it from stones and rough ground.
2. Insulation mats
3. Sleeping bag.
4. Pillow to keep the shopulders slightly raised.
5. Drinking water.
6. Urine bottle.
7. Vomit bag.
8. Altimeter to fit into the monitoring sleeve above the zip.
9. Walking poles can help those on the pump to maintain their balance.
10. Warm clothing.

1. REC High Altitude First Aid (4hrs)
2. REC Trekking First Aid (8hrs) which includes specific country briefing
3. REC L5 Travel & Expedition First Aid (16hrs)
4. RGS Off Site Safety Management (15hrs minimum)

​Contact Helen Menhinick at BRYN WALKING for further details or myself at [email protected] 
​Private courses are available on request.

This 16hr REC Advanced First Aid course was for 9 participants who were all highly qualified and very experienced outdoor professionals. Their primary role is to train new army recruits in a range of outdoor adventurous skills.
Bryn Walking advanced training courses have a maximum of 9 participants.
Alan Ward (International Mountain Leader) was the Course Tutor.
A two day course (16 hours). The Travel and Expedition First Aid course is designed to introduce a systematic way of advanced first aid for managing casualties in remote areas and at high altitude. Topic learning and practicals intermixed with scenarios of real situations. The course includes:

• Development of skills gained at emergency level: Primary & Secondary Surveys, Choking, CPR and AED

• In-depth review of emergency care topics and practical revision to demonstrate competence

• Advanced techniques • skills • development

• Review of special interest topics by the candidates

Course Content: The course is progressive by building on each session, introducing new outdoor scenarios to test all techniques for:

• Environment: hazards • cold • heat • chemicals • poisons • light • toxic substances

• Escort: vital signs • psychological • monitor • fluids • stretcher • splints • pain control

• Illness: chest pain • stroke • asthma • epilepsy • diabetes • poisons • hyperventilation • mental • hyponatraemia • sepsis

• Scenarios: triage • incident management • emergency plans • action cards

• Travel: dislocations • wound management • tropical diseases • gastric illnesses • altitude (incl. PAC)

The Assessment
This Travel & Expedition First Aid course is assessed in various ways including: REC L2 Individual Test Paper, Structured assessment of outdoor scenarios, a REC L5 Team Challenge Test Paper and continuous assement during the course.
Course feedback: The greatest strengths of this course - 

• Excellent equipment - Content supported by experience and stories
• Delivered at the right pace/manner to the audience
• Educational
• Nice stories - gave context to the subjects
• Applicable to my work
• Scenarios
• Great course with some great stories
• Context
• Practical application
• Theory was good
• Practice was good
• Lots of variety
• Interesting content around the info with case studies etc
• Well Delivered

1. Note from one candidate: "Be aware that self-harm scenarios can be very triggering - those with a self-harm history may not disclose this"
2. Note from another candidate: "Bit of whisky - only joking"​

Having delivered many First Aid courses for National Park Authority staff since 2002, it was a pleasure to offer this First Aid training yesterday by Bryn Walking. Alan Ward (International Mountain Leader) was the course tutor.

Core subjects delivered:

• Primary & Secondary Survey D*RS ABC DE
• Choking
• CPR
• AED

Bryn Walking's two instructors have delivered over 250 REC Outdoor First Aid (including EFAW & FAW) courses in addition to specialist courses such as:

• High Altitude First Aid Workshop (4hrs)
• Trekking First Aid (8hrs) with specific country destination awareness
• Travel & Expedition First Aid (16hrs) - previously classed as REC Level 5

​These courses have been delivered throughout the UK and in Nepal, Morocco and Indonesia.

Additionally, the Royal Geographical Society (RGS) Off Site Safety Management (OSSM) course is available - the next course is at the Cwmcarn visitor Centre on January 13th/14th.

Equipment used by Bryn Walking:

1. CPR training manikins: Laerdal QCPR manikins with feedback technology to help instructors improve both CPR training quality, classroom efficiency and learner engagement. The technology delivers instant feedback to candidates and produces a review of performance once candidates have completed 4 cycles of CPR on adult, child and baby manikins.
2. Choking equipment includes the Choking Charlie manikin, Actfast Choking Vests and the recently introduced LifeVac, a revolutionary anti-choking device. A recent Outdoor First Aid course to NHS staff impressed the participants when they all used the LifeVac anti-choking device.
3. AED units are the very effective Prestan AED UltraTrainer.
4. Realistic scenarios employ a wide range of training aids based on training experience since 2002. 

Rescue Emergency Care (REC) was established in 1986 and is one of the United Kingdom's Specialist First Aid Training organisations. A quality assurance scheme ensures quality First Aid training is delivered and Bryn Walking courses also comply with ISO9001:2015 Quality Management Systems to:

• Improve quality
• Manage processes
• Reduce costs
• Stay competetive

The off-site safety management course has been designed to increase delegates’ knowledge, understanding and skills in planning, managing and evaluating the safety of off-site visits in a number of different contexts.
It is intended to meet the needs of groups organising a very wide range of activities both in the UK and abroad. It is particularly relevant to teachers, social workers, expedition leaders and university lecturers, especially those who are responsible for off-site visits within their organisations, such as geographical and biological fieldwork, adventurous outdoor activities and cultural visits.
Topics covered in the course are relevant to those operating to the British Standard 8848 - specification for the provision of visits, fieldwork, expeditions, and adventurous activities outside the United Kingdom.
ContentThe course is divided into three sections, each representing a vital stage in managing an off-site activity/event:
Planning for the event
This section addresses those aspects of planning which must be completed before the group departs in order to ensure the safe management of the event. It includes assessing the needs of the group, arranging the necessary staffing, and undertaking a risk assessment.
Managing the event
This section addresses the key management requirements relating to group safety during an activity including appropriate actions and procedures required when dealing with both minor and major incidents and contingencies.
Evaluating the event
This section addresses the essential review of the whole event that must be carried out to effectively improve future planning and practice.

7 participants completed this award to a high standard and were a pleasure to work with.

​Day 1 commenced with a morning theory session at the National Park Visitor Centre with a practical skills session after lunch on Mynydd Illtyd Common to the Twny y Gaer (367m Hill Fort).

Day 2 was a full day on the hills above Talybont-on-Usk using a variety of public rights of way with some not visible on the map. Various sites of environmental interest were passed and practical use of group shelters demonstrated along with equipment discussions. Clothing was put to the test during the afternoon with heavy rain encountered.

​A final session was held in the Canal Cafe back in Talybont-on-Usk.

The greatest strengths of this couse are:

1. Alan - loved the delivery and skills, observations of map and local features and anecdotes.
2. Good mix of theory and practical work.
3. The practical sessions and the Leaders' patience.
4. Being able to ask questions without fear of feeling silly.
5. On-course training out in the field.
6. Right number of people on the course.
7. Choice of venue.
8. Practical elements - knowledge of instructors.
9. Proximity of the Brecon Beacons (close to home).
10. Given me confidence in use of compass and navigating without electronic assistance.
​11. Outdoor navigation and learning about map features.

Alan wrote: This trek for Himalayan Kingdoms involved flying to Kolkata (previously known as Calcutta) for a couple of nights before an overnight sleeper train up to Siliguri as our access point into Sikkim. Disappointedly, Himalayan Kingdoms hadn't  booked us into a comfortable class of sleeping berths and there was no food available on the train. 2nd Class AC was quite basic but bedding was provided in our 4-berh open cabins and the "Darjeeling Mail" pulled out of the station just before midnight for the 16hr journey northwards across the dry plains of North Bengal to New Jalpaiguri after 650km.

Whilst in Kolkata we had toured the main sites: Victoria Memorial Hall, Howrah Bridge and the area where Fort William and the old General Post Office were located. This was the "Black Hole of Calcutta"  where British prisoners of war were held in the Indian Mutiny in 1756 and of 146 prisoners of war, 123 died.

Our main gateway towards Kanchenjunga (8586m) Base Camp (5160m) was Gangtok and our final exit from Sikkim was the old hill town of Darjeeling.

The overall routing was: Kolkata - Siliguri - Kalimpong (1250m) - Gangtok (1547m) -  Rumtek - Yuksom (1775m) - Bakhim (2700m) - Zamligaon - Dzongri (4050m) - Thangsing (4010m) - Samati Lake (4355m) - Goecha La - Thangsing - Tsoka - Pemayangtse (2085m) - Darjeeling (2134m).

Kalimpong was a remote hill station in times gone by and was a meeting point of the once "Three Closed Lands" on the trade routes to Tibet, Bhutan and Nepal and local cultural and social influences reflect those of the three countries. Our Himalayan Hotel was very comfortable with good food for our two night stay.

In Kalimpong we visited the colourful Raja Dorjee Market, Thongsa Gompa which was founded in 1692, Zong-dog Palri Fobrang Monastry and several other sites of interest.

In Gangtok, Sikkim's second largest city, we visited the International Flower Fair where over 500 indigenous species of orchids were on display and this was a colourful photographic experience. The Research Insitute of Tibetology was also very interesting and displayed many fine examples of silk embroidered thangkas.

Rumtek Monastry was visited as a key site for the Kagyupa (Red Hat) sect of Tibetan Lamaistic Buddhism and we had plenty of time to look around this large complex before driving, the next day, to Yuksum where we'd camp for the night before our trek commenced.

For some bizarre reason I developed a sore ankle with an inflamed bursa which caused me to limp for much of the trek but it eventually disappeared and hasn't occured since. Effective strapping and pain killers helped along with a night cap on most nights of Chivas Regal.

The 90km (round trip) trek to the Goeche La (4600m) went well with only a couple of minor issues. The challenging trek passes through stunning scenery and at the Goeche La, our group were rewarded with magnificent views of Kanchenjunga, the world's third highest mountain (8586m).

 One participant had been advised at the time of her booking that we'd not cross any suspension bridges as she had a fear of heights. We crossed one most days!

​In Darjeeling we were supposed to stay at quite a famous hotel (the Windamere Hotel) but this wasn't to be the case as the staff were on strike but several of the group thought this was my fault! Nevertheless, the New Elgin Hotel where we stayed was excellent.

A highlight of Darjeeling for me was taking the narrow gauge  "Toy Train" as far as Sendora and driving back up to Darjeeling. The first 32km of this railway opened back in 1880 and was a rewarding trip on the world's highest narrow gauge railway connecting Darjeeling with the main line station down on the plains of North Bengal. a second highlight was taking an ancient cable car gondola down to the Happy Valley Tea Estate where tea was still being produced by old orthodox methods and the tea sold in Kolkata for a global market.

A final night back in Delhi after our domestic flight was at the fabulous Imperial Hotel before our long-haul flights back to the UK with Gulf Air.

​The Times of India wrote: The Pin Parvati Trek, which connects the Parvati Valley with the Pin Valley in Himachal Pradesh, is known for its extreme weather conditions and technical challenges. The trek involves crossing the Pin Parvati Pass at 5,319 meters (17,450 feet) and navigating through rugged terrain and snowfields. The trek’s remote location and unpredictable weather make it a demanding adventure. The risk of altitude sickness and the challenging terrain add to its fearsome reputation.

 Alan wrote: Little did I realise when I accepted leadership of this trek that we'd be heading into a valley which was under investigation by the British High Commission in New Delhi. The reason being was due to the number of missing western trekkers and other embassies were also involved.

The Parbati Valley was a hotbed of solo western trekkers seeking drugs in an area that was cheap to stay in. The Parbati Valley is nicknamed "The Valley of Death" as dozens of travellers have gone missing since the 1990's. 

We reached the hot springs high in the valley but my local Sirdar was concerned about the route ahead so he and I went on to do a recce. It was obvious that crossing a wide and rocky slab could have led to potential loss of life as a fall would not have been recoverable.

​I spoke with the Himalayan Kingdoms office back home and it was agreed we'd retreat down the road and drive around into the Pin Valley in Spiti where we would have emerged after crossing the Pin Parbati Pass at 5319m.

Our week long exploration of the Spiti Valley was truly exceptional and we enjoyed day walks from our static campsite close to the spectacular Ki Gompa.

Alan wrote: I was grateful to Steve Bell, founder of Jagged-Globe for accepting me as an Expedition Leader and I was very excited about the opportunity to lead a group into Ladakh to summit Stok Kangri.

Flying into Leh (3500m) always requires 2 to 3 nights in order to acclimatise to the altitude before commencing treks and expeditions in this wonderful area. Leh itself is the historical capital of Ladakh and Leh Palace was built at about the same time as the Potala Palace in Lhasa, Tibet.

​After acclimatising in Leh, our acclimatisation trek was from Lamayuru to Chilling across several high passes before returning to Leh for 2 nights to rest and prepare for Stok Kangri. The highest pass crossed was the Konke La (4950m) but there were several other passes which were unnamed.

The trek into Stok Kangri Base Camp went well and our local company had arranged a high camp at 5650m once we'd crossed the glacier. This resulted in an almost easy summit day with everyone reaching the summit at 0930 having left the high camp at 0300.

The opportunity of using the high camp was later withdrawn by the local government which made for much longer summit days.

​On two subsequent trips, I failed to summit so was pleased at my first attempt and the success of topping out on such a summit.

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• Navigate using a variety of maps and scales.
• Use 4 and 6 figure grid references with worded descriptions to define the position of a map feature and to locate a feature on the ground.
• Orientate the map using handrails, obvious point features and major landforms.
• Use linear features (e.g. paths, tracks, clear boundaries) as handrails in simple navigation exercises.
• Relate prominent landforms such as large hills and valleys to corresponding contour information on the map.
• Orientate the map by aligning a compass needle against grid north and be aware that magnetic variation causes an inaccuracy.
• Use an orientated map to confirm the direction of travel.
• Use clearly identifiable features to confirm position along the route and to recognise when the target has been overshot.
• Measure horizontal distance on the map and estimate distance on the ground using timing, pacing and simple visual judgements e.g.100m.
• Plan and implement simple routes and navigation strategies based on the above skills.
• Recognise a navigation error within a few minutes and apply simple relocation techniques using handrails and prominent features.
• Be aware of the use of mobile phone location apps as a back up to map and compass and in emergencies.
• Demonstrate an awareness of local and national access issues, access legislation, personal responsibilities, the Countryside Code and sustainability.
• Demonstrate appropriate knowledge of walking equipment, safety equipment and emergency procedures.

The day began in the classroom at the National Park Visitor Centre with refreshments offered on arrival followed by introductions and an outline of the 12hr course over two days.
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The day consisted of a classroom based morning theoretical session with the afternoon out on Mynydd Illtyd Common to practice new or refreshed navigation skills. 
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The highest point on the afternoon session was the trig point on the Twyn y Gaer (367m) iron age hillfort with views northwards over the Usk Valley and to the south, the wide panorama of the Central Beacons.

The day commenced at the Llangasty Village Hall car park with the four participants taking it in turns to lead sections of the planned route today.

Key features of the route included: The Paragon Tower, Allt House, Allt yr Esgair (393m), Llangasty-Talyllyn Church, Llangorse Lake and the colourful Ty Mawr Farm.

All four participants passed the requirements of the Bronze Navigator Award so congratulations to them all - well done!

Back at the car park there was a debriefing and general discussion of individual action plans which ranged from attending the next NNAS level which is the Silver Navigator Award whilst there was also strong interest from one participant about the Mountain Leader (Summer) Award.

The greatest strengths of this course are:

• Being a very practical hands on course
• Outdoor assessments
• Alan's wealth of experience and enthusiasm
• Beautiful walks and scenery
• Putting the theory into practice - just the right mix

The course could be improved by:

• Can't think of anything
• More map information

NOTE FOR HELEN:
I suggest once participants are booked on a course that a pre-requisite for attendance is to have looked at the map glossary on their maps and have a very good understanding of symbols and map information.
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Topic one: Introductions and course outline
Topic two: Mountain hazards
Topic three: Mountain environment
Topic four: Maps & compass
Topic five: Navigation
Topic six: Route planning (includes Weather)
Topic seven: Personal clothing and equipment
Topic eight: Emergency procedures

The course duration is from 0900 until approximately 1600 with refreshments available during the morning classoom session. The afternoon session is entirely outdoors on Mynydd Illtyd Common with a final short debriefing session where we discussed future personal development and other available training from Bryn Walking.

Many thanks to Janet for helping me on the day.

This year's fourth and final Safety-on-the-Hills course will be on Saturday 3rd August.

​A REC Outdoor First Aid course is available on September 3rd/4th (£155) or as an Outdoor FAW course on September 3rd/4th/5th (£200).