 February 8th: Travel to Ait ben haddou from the kasbah du toubkalI was packed for departure and after breakfast we had one last one hour training session on the LifeVac equipment for the hotel staff - they were unanamous in praising this new equipment. After saying farewells I walked down to the Kasbah du Toubkal office down in Imlil. My mule transported luggage soon arrived and Rashid my driver set off in the Mercedes Vito Minivan. The 4hr journey was interesting and from Tahanaoute we headed east to join the very well surfaced N9 highway to the south. A stunning drive into the snow capped mountains reached a height of 2260m at the Col du Tichka where we stopped briefly for a photo opportunity. Only two weeks previously this mountain highway had been closed due to heavy snowfall. Reaching Ait Ben Haddou, Rashid soon found the Dar Mouna Hotel for my 3 night stay. The wecome was warm and after a room viewing, I was upgraded to their best suite No. 17 with fabulous views over to the Ksar Ait Ben Haddou. Briefly unpacking I headed over to the UNESCO World Heritage site which has featured in epic movies such as Lawrence of Arabia, The Man Who Would be King, Game of Thrones and, of course, Gladiator. I paid my MAD 20 entrance fee, valid for my entire stay and at the ancient gateway met a local guide, Nabil, and arranged for a tour the following morning. He is from one of the five families who reside in the site and who are fortunate to recive high incomes from film companies. Back at the Dar Mouna I opted to dine in and enjoyed dinner there of cabbage soup, roast chicken followed by crepes. This was accompanied by my own gin and hotel supplied tonic in this alcohol free town. I enjoyed a verty good night's sleep in my suite. THE DAR MOUNA HOTEL - AIT BEN HADDOUfebruary 9th: in ait ben haddouAfter a very good night's sleep I woke at around 0700 with the room feeling cold. When the Manager last night asked me if I'd like the air conditioning on, I hadn't realised the unit was also a heater. I drew my curtains to the most amazing view of the Ksar Ait Ben Haddou. It could only have been a better experience if I'd had an early morning tea but there are no brew kits here. The shower was hot but the heat didn't last for long but I managed to do some washing and now have enough to get me home. Breakfast was good with a nice hot omlette and plentiful other things to eat and ample supplies of hot coffee and hot milk. Heading over to the Ksar I met Nabil for a very comprehensive tour of the site and his home for traditional tea and met his mother. His English was fluent and knowledge of the site excellent. Being with him for almost two hours enabled excellent photographic opportunities and his fee of £20 was very much worth it. Towards the end of the tour I did some shopping for a few gifts to take back home. Between my hotel and the main gateway there were a couple of camels available to ride. Their handler was very friendly and allowed me to photograph his two camels which were obviously very well cared for and looked after. Back on this side of the river I opted for a pizza lunch at the La Terazza Italian restaurant which was run by a chef from Rome and his wife from Cassablanca. My Parma Ham Pizza was outstanding and one of the best pizzas I've ever enjoyed. A small ice cream followed which would be my one and ony ice cream in Morocco but a real treat! Returning to Dar Mouna I wrote my blog and edited some images before going for a late afternoon walk, On the town minaret I noticed a huge nest but there was no sign of the storks. Mohammed the hotel manager told me there used to be many in the area but ony one pair are still to be seen in the area, I later saw them down by the river. I hope to photograph them in the morning before they fly off for the day to look for food. Several gin and tonics on the terrace below my suite completed the day for me before I came upstairs to relax in my room. No dinner for me as I'm still quite full from my pizza lunch! february 10th: in ait ben haddouAfter a good night's sleep I went down for breakfast of the standard moroccan fare but the very good coffee was a bonus with enough left over to fill my travel mug. With my camera equipment I walked back to the minaret where one stork was already perched on the nest. Across the road was a three story cafe so I went in for a coffee and went up to the roof terrace to set up my tripod and long lens. For a long time there was only one stork visible but the partner eventually appeared for a good photo opportunity. Back at the Dar Mouna I edited some picture and wrote my blog and then phoned Helen to discuss future work programmes. I walked across to the Ksar for one last walk and saw that a giant fabricated horse was being installed at a Greek looking temple which was under construction for a film production. Crossing the river I went into La Terrazza for an iced coffee and around 1230 ordered lunch of spaghetti bolognese which was very good. Several tables were occupied by film crew construction personnel from the UK. I spent the afternoon on my blog and editing pictures. february 11th: travel to marrakechxxx february 12th: fly to lhr t2 via lisxxx
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 Feb 2nd: Travel from LHR T2 via LISbon to marrakech and onto the Kasbah du ToubkalWe were on the road by 0630 for an easy drive to LHR T2 with a couple of stops on the M4. I drove as Yolande would drive home from T2. I was soon checked in and having breakfast in the Lufthansa Lounge. Flight boarding was on time on the relatively new A321XLR Neo which was very comfortable with very good entertainment systems on a large screen and free WiFi for an hour. The 2.5hr flight was smooth and a very good lunch was served with fine wines followed by port. My transit in Lisbon was just over an hour before we bussed out to a waiting Embraer 195 aircraft for the fight to Marrakech. Again, the service was excellent. Landing at Marrakech was 25mins ahead of schedule and after immigration, money changing and security I met Helen as she was arriving with our driver Ahmed. Helen had been in Morocco for a Bryn Walking for Women trekking event from the Kasbah du Toubkal. The drive to Imlil was as expected but rather than being dropped off at the Kasbah du Toubkal we continued up the road to a road head above the Kasbah du Toubkal. This was great as instead of the usual uphill trudge we actuay only had a short walk down to the Kasbah by the light of my petzl headtorch. We arrived there at about 2100hrs. Our rooms were allocated and we were soon enjoying a late dinner. After some unpacking we turned in before midnight as I'd been keen to hear how Helen's trek had gone. I was in my favourite room Tikha Linen whilst Helen was in Ouggoug in the tower block close by. HELEN'S COMMENTS: FEB 3rd: At the Kasbah du ToubkalIt was good to see how much rebuilding progress had been achieved and Mike McHugo, the owner, had asked me to bring my photographic equipment to record the progress. I liked the new dining room and the new reception are was good too. Some wall hangings and exterior work to complete and everything will be ready for the March grand opening post-earthquake. During the morning we finished unpacking the 50kg of training equipment we'd brought with us and set up the Conference Room ready for tomorrow. After lunch we went for a walk for a photoshoot as per Mike's request and, on our return, he expressed satisfaction with my efforts. HELEN'S COMMENTS: feb 4th: At the kasbah du toubkal - REC trekking first aid for 4 berber mountain guidesl had designed the REC Trekking First Aid course as either a 6hr or 8hr course dependent on who the candidates were. Disappointingly there were ony 4 mountain guides attending and one of those didn't show much interest all day. I'd though Hassan the receptionist and the new assistant receptionist might grasp the opportunity to be First Aid trained but this wasn't to be. The morning course content was Basic Life Support for 3hrs with Travel & Expedition First Aid for 3hrs in the afternoon. The course went well generally with several outdoor scenario sessions and the Portable Altitude Chamber (PAC) demonstration up by the new tower on the raised rooftop bacony. All of the 20 mountain guides we've trained over the last two years for UIAA Mountain Skills think there shoud be a PAC up at the high lodges (3200m). Interestingly, the IML's I've asked don't think there should be - I wonder who knows best? My concluding thoughts for the day were that being only able to train 4 mountain guides was a poor result after travelling all this way for today......... HELEN'S COMMENTS: feb 5th: at the kasbah du toubkal - REC life saver first aid for 7 housemothers from the education for all (EFa) charity which the kasbah du toubkal supportsWe'd trained 12 EFA Housemothers back in December and they were all a pleasure to work with, such a fun bunch of ladies who were very grateful for this learning opportunity. The Life Saver First Aid was a 4hr REC certificated course. After lunch Helen, Latifa and I walked down into Imil for another photoshoot opportunity and used Dar Imlil rooftop for this before climbing back up to the Kasbah du Toubkal. Helen purchased the first of two carpets from her favourite shop in Imlil. HELEN'S COMMENTS: feb 6th: at the kasbah du toubkal day - photographyToday should have been another Life Saver First Aid course but no candidates from the hotel staff appeared for this so Helen and I spent the morning on administrative tasks and photo editing. The afternoon was at leisure for me whist Helen and Latifa went for a walk but only after purchasing a second carpet which I was given to carry back up to the Kasbah. HELEN'S COMMENTS: feb 7th: at the kasbah du toubkal - Helen & latifa departWe were all up bright and early for breakfast with Helen almost packed and ready for her evening BA669 at 1800. Latifa and her were departing for Marrakech after an early lunch. At Mike's suggestion we headed down into Imlil for an eary coffee and final photoshop opportunities from Dar Imlil Lodge and several other rooftop cafes which provided a new classic view looking up at the Kasbah du Toubkal. Unfortunately the frontage presented unfinished areas but Mike was confident that Photoshop could fresolve these issues. Heading back up for lunch, Helen stopped for a jabela she'd been admiring. Helen and Latifa left after lunch and I enjoyed an afternoon nap! Helen was met at HR by husband James and dog Cooper. I spent the rest of the day photo editing and transferring images to Mike's portabe hard drive. With everything finished I decided to head to Ait Ben Haddou the following morning and Mike very kindly provided transport for me. HELEN'S COMMENTS:  concluding thoughtsThe February 2025 training draws to an end a two year UIAA Mountain Skills training programme with 20 Berber mountain guides achieving completion certification. This training was delivered by myself and Helen Menhinick of Bryn Walking. Throughout the training we were assisted by Latifa Asselouf one of the area's most qualified and experienced mountain guides. Many thanks to Helen and Latifa for their valuable contributions to the training program. uiaa mountain skills feedback from the kasbah du toubkalQ1. Did the course provide the knowledge to help you as a Mountain Guide in the High Atlas Mountains? Yes, the course offered comprehensive knowledge and practical skills that are directly applicable to guiding in the High Atlas Mountains. We learned about the terrain, and safety measures necessary for guiding in this specific region. The course’s focus on real-world situations, including navigation, first aid, and decision-making under pressure, gave us confidence in my ability to lead and manage groups in the mountains. Q2. Did the two instructors help you to learn this information? Absolutely. The two instructors Alan & Helene were highly knowledgeable and experienced. They provided clear explanations, demonstrated techniques, and answered all of our questions. They encouraged active participation and offered valuable insights from their own experiences as mountain guides. Their feedback during practice sessions was constructive and helped us improve our skills and confidence. Q3. Was the training equipment good for you to practice on? Yes, the training equipment was top-notch and well-suited for the tasks we were practicing. From technical climbing gear to maps and compasses, everything was high-quality and appropriate for the terrain we were working on. The equipment was well-maintained and allowed for safe and effective practice. Q4. Do you have any more comments about the course? Overall, We found the course to be an excellent learning experience. The combination of theory, hands-on practice, and immersion in the High Atlas environment gave us a well-rounded understanding of mountain guiding. I especially appreciated the focus on sustainable and respectful practices when working with local communities. The course exceeded our expectations, and we feel more prepared for our future role as a mountain guides. Q5. Was the Kasbah du Toubkal a good learning venue experience for you? Yes, the Kasbah du Toubkal was an ideal venue for this course. Its location in the heart of the High Atlas Mountains provided an authentic and immersive learning environment. The facilities were comfortable and well-equipped, and the stunning surroundings gave us the opportunity to practice in a real-world mountain setting. The Kasbah’s close proximity to the trails and mountains made it easy to explore the region, and the atmosphere was perfect for both learning and relaxation. Hope this makes sense & let us know how we can help you & hope you are enjoying your time in Ait Ben Hadou . Lahcen & Team & Guides - Best regards rec first aid feedback from the kasbah du toubkal
 january 21st/22nd: The course was completed by 5 candidates who were a pleasure to work with: Two international mountain leaders and 3 aspirant international mountain leaders at cwmcarn visitor centre.A useful and enjoyable CPD course (2 Points) for those developing and implementing off site trips both in the United Kingdom and on overseas trips. The course includes awareness of appropriate British and International Standards for good practice trips. Course feedback
rgs ossm - COURSE CONTENTIn addition to the normal RGS OSSM course content, this course also included Section 3.5 of the 2025 UIMLA Standard for: TRAVEL RISK MANAGEMENT, EMERGENCY PLANING AND INCIDENT REPORTING List of Competences
Method of training The training was a mixture of theory and practical development for Planning, Managing and Evaluating as required by the RGS OSSM syllabus. Method of Assessment
    MOROCCO: DECEMBER 1ST TO 7TH 2024 - UIAA Mountain Hiking SkillsAs part of an ongoing training programme at the Kasbah du Toubkal, Helen Menhinick of Bryn Walking and I travelled into the High Atlas Mountains of Morocco to deliver our third UIAA Mountain Hiking Skills course to local Berber Mountain Guides. After a night at the LHR T2/T3 Hilton Garden Inn we flew to Marrakech via Lisbon with TAP Air Portugal (due to non-availability of BA flights) and arrived at the Kasbah du Toubkal in time for dinner on December 2nd. After leaving the airport we'd driven into central Marrakech to collect Latifa Asselouf, a very well qualified mountain guide with whom we work on the courses that we deliver at the Kasbah du Toubkal. Latifa is one of the few women mountain guides in the High Atlas Mountains of Morocco - she is a pleasure to work with. Helen's Daily Comments: The funniest bit of the day was Ahmed holding up a client collection sign 'Helen Menhinick'. We always expect 'Alan Ward', so I felt very important. Great to be back up in Imlil, so many familiar faces and a very warm welcome at the Kasbah. Day 1 - UIAA MHS Day 1 of this 5-day course centres around the Kasbah du Toubkal (alt. 1820m) with a morning session for theory of Mountain Hiking Skills and then a 4hr walk higher up the Imlil Valley to Aremd. Today introduced the mountain guides to working with maps (1:25000 and 1:50000) and compasses and good practice skills as defined by the UIAA syllabus for this course. Throughout the course the guides would carry two group shelters and two First Aid kits. The group shelters were demonstrated on a grassy field above Aremd. The Kasbah is equipped with group shelters and appropriate First Aid kits for the guides to use but I'm not really convinced this happens. Before leaving Aremd one of the guides, Hamid Ait Lmouden, invited the group into his home, a small trekking lodge, for traditional tea and snacks before descending back to the Kasbah. The views from his terrace looking towards Mt Toubkal (4167m) were quite spectacular. Helen's Daily Comments: A lovely walk to get to know the guides. All very experienced in the High Atlas Mountains and fun to be with. Our driver Ahmed happened to pass by on a motorbike on the bridge at Aremd - for a moment I thought Alan had a lift back. It was very funny and made a great photo. COURSE CONTENT DAY 1: Introduction - Structure of Mountain Hiking Skills Training Scheme & Representative Bodies - Mountain Hazards - Mountain Environment - Maps & Compass - Navigation - Route Planning - Personal Equipment - Emergency Procedures Day 2 - UIAA MHS We set off after breakfast and soon left the Kasbah and Imlil behind. Helen demonstrated pacing and timing skills and in pairs, the guides took turns to lead a section to specific objectives along the trail. Lunch was on the Tizi n'Mzik (2480m) and was the full blown Moroccan trekking lunch with quite a variety of interesting local foods. Interestingly, Morocco is the only place in the world where I eat salads for lunch! After lunch, with guides navigating, we descended steeply to the badly earthquake damaged village of Tizi Oussem in the Azzenden Valley. From there we caught a "bus" organised by Latifa Asselouf. Latifa works with us on all the courses we deliver at the Kasbah du Toubkal and is a great help with translation. The "bus" was quite vintage but saved us 4km on tarmac to our lodge for the night at Ait Aissa. Before dinner we went for a day into night navigation exercise above the lodge. Dinner was a real treat as our guide candidates had arranged to have a goat sacrificed and prepared for a ceremonial dinner. Helen's Daily Comments: After a long day (much discussion on route) we had to wait a couple of hours for our bags because, from the tizi, one of the mules had run all the way back to Imlil. It was shocking to see all the devastating damage from the earthquake, over a year on and our second visit since. Never-the-less, you are never far from the sound of a cockerel or mule/donkey - life goes on with commendable resilience. COURSE CONTENT DAY 2: Maps & Compass - Navigation - Mountain Walk (8hrs over 2500m Tizi) - Day into Night Navigation (2hrs) DAY 3 - UIAA MHS After a good breakfast we left the lodge behind and climbed up to a spur at about 2000m for some navigation practical training before pairs of the guides led us up to the Tizi n'Oudite (2220m). Beyond the Tizi n'Oudite (2220m) we followed a newly constructed precipice path which followed the 2000m contour (undulating slightly) to our lunch stop for another traditional Moroccan lunch. From there, a steeply descending path led us back into Imlil but much care was needed on this descent. It was very dry, loose and non existent in places with steep drops. A series of new trails are appearing in the areas around Imlil. The mountain guides supervise their construction with local farmers providing the labour. On route back into Imlil, Lahcen (Manager of the Kasbah du Toubkal) hosted a Berber Tea Ceremony at his guest house in Arghan, where Helen as the honoured guest, was taught how to brew and serve traditional local tea in local costume. There was much food offered to the group so, back at the Kasbah, Helen and I opted out of dinner and we were served snacks in our lounge. The name of the village 'Arghan' means 'where the sun shines first - warmest village in the valley'. It really does get the sun at the first opportunity and keeps it all day. Helen's Daily Comments: I was surprised how much the path had deteriorated on the descent and so I made changes for the planned route in January after discussions with Latifa and Alan. Another enjoyable day. Great to see that the guides picked up all the litter, bagged it and carried it out with them. COURSE CONTENT DAY 3: Maps & Compass - Navigation - Mountain Walk (6hrs) - Movement on Steeper Terrain and Broken Ground (2hrs) Day 4 - uiaa mhs We'd discussed with the group how they'd best like to spend this last practical session and it was agreed to remain in the grounds of the Kasbah du Toubkal for final skills sessions on the core elements of the UIAA syllabus. Helen's Daily Comments: A great round up of skills and also covering remaining parts of the syllabus. The group were so receptive and eager. Some lengthy discussions which I hope were beneficial. COURSE CONTENT DAY 4: Maps & Compass - Navigation - Weather day 5 - UIAA MHSThis final day of the UIAA MHS course would see candidates complete the UIAA online assessment and certification process before completing the REC Trekking First Aid course (6/8hrs). After the course we were all invited to Mohamed Ait Idar's house for tea where traditional mint tea and cakes were served. Helen's Daily Comments: Showing all the guides how you can look after yourself or save a life in the environment they work in was a pleasure. It is important to include humour when teaching and learning important skills like this - they will remember our course for sure. We handed out the Sigg bottles which we had raised money for in the UK prior to our visit and I handed out the Bryn Walking keyrings that my son had made especially. COURSE CONTENT DAY 5: UIAA MHS Online Administration, Assessment & Certification - REC Trekking First Aid (6/8hrs)  december 8th - (Helen's birthday) Today had been scheduled as a REC Life Saver First Aid (4hr) course for staff at the Kasbah but it appeared that there were no staff who required this. Helen and Latifa decided to go for a walk whilst I remained at the Kasbah to catch up on administration and to edit photographs and start writing my blog. Their walk would be to get a ride from Imlil up to the Tizi n'Tamatert (2302m) and then descend to Tinerhourhine to follow the Inane valley downstream before crossing the river and climbing up to the Tizi n'Aguersioual (2050m). They then descended back into the Imlil Valley before returning to the Kasbah. One of the guides who we met last year was passing and gave them a lift on the road up to Imlil. This is a good acclimatisation walk for an interesting day before heading up to Mt Toubkal (4167m). Helen's birthday dinner was an enjoyable experience with gifts and a nice cake to end the day off. Helen's Daily Comments: This day was supposed to be kept under wraps, so to speak, but there was a leak amongst the team... What a special day it turned out to be. A fabulous walk with Latifa. Fantastic, breathtaking scenery and everyone we met in the villages wanted us to come in for tea. Lahcen pulled out all the stops and had one of the staff make a delicious birthday cake which we shared with the other guests and the Kasbah staff. Unbeknown to me a note had been on the wall of reception all day, saying 'Happy Birthday Helen' - it was written in arabic so that I would be none the wiser - very funny.  december 9th - 4hr REC first aid course After breakfast, Helen and Latifa walked up to Aremd to visit one of the Imlil shop keepers and his family, while I continued with administration and blog writing. After a lunch on the new terrace overlooking Imlil it was time for a 4hr Lifesaving First Aid course for 12 EFA Housemothers. Education For All (EFA). We'd been a bit concerned about how this course would be but Latifa Aliza from EFA and the 11 Housemothers were a pleasure to work with, they were fun and very professional throughout the course. Helen's Daily Comments: My experience with Ibrihim, the shop keeper, and the introduction to his family I shall always remember. To sit in their family kitchen eating a shared plate of rice pudding for breakfast, listening to their happy chatter and laughter was incredibly special. His father is a very well respected elder in the community and I was honoured to be served tea by him and share delicious Moroccan breads. We were quite apprehensive about the final first aid course for the house mothers; we didn't need to be - they were all great fun to work with; keen to learn and to listen. It was a pleasure to meet them all - a wonderful and interesting bunch of women.  december 10th - Start of journey back to ukThe day for Helen and I to travel to Marrakech for one night at the Riad Bleu where we'd previously stayed. I like staying here but there are a few issues which need to be resolved, not least being the cold reception area where breakfast is served. Ideally, rooms would be fitted with a kettle and brew kit. Before leaving Imlil we browsed the shops and enjoyed a final coffee with our driver and one of our mountain guides. We spent the afternoon in the narrow streets, stopping for lunch and browsing the souks, before arriving at the main square (Jemaael-Fnaa) where we enjoyed coffee on a roof top cafe. We then returned to the Riad Bleu for an hour or so before heading back to the main square for something to eat. On our return to the Riad Bleu, Mike McHugo (Discover limited/Kasbah du Toubkal) had arrived with a friend so we spent an hour or so catching up before bedtime. Helen's Daily Comments: Always sad to leave Imlil - 'til next time. I was pleased to see Marrakesh looking and feeling much more like normal after all the extensive damage caused by the earthquake (September 2023). december 11th - final leg of journeyWe were up and about to have breakfast with Mike and his friend Andy but one of my criticisms of the Riad Bleu is how cold the breakfast area was - warm clothing was vital for our survival! Our airport transfer dropped us off at the airport and we were soon checked in and through formalities with ease. Our TAP flight took off on time and after a short transfer time in Lisbon, the next flight took us into LHR T2 from where we drove home to Cardiff. Helen's Daily Comments: TAP is a great airline but quite an exhausting journey home with a transfer in Lisbon. 
A big thank you from us!  Photo credit - Abdellatif Azdour We would like to thank Mike McHugo for this unique opportunity, and huge thanks to the mountains guides, the house mothers, the staff at the Kasbah du Toubkal and the people of the Imlil valley - you welcome us in to your culture, your lives and your homes and we treasure every moment.
Alan and Helen  Image from the front cover of "The Escape from Singapore" by Richard Gough on February 14th 1942 my father escaped from singapore - this is his story - Singapore surrendered to the Japanese on february 15th!Dad was stationed in Shanghai and Hong Kong before the outbreak of WW2 and ended up in Singapore. Details are sketchy to say the least but this is his story and my 2025 journey to follow in his footsteps, following the route he took to Padang in West Sumatra where he embarked on the SS Tinombo to safely reach Columbo and on to Bombay.  The official escape order which allowed my father to be authorised to leave Singapore, signed by Brigadier F.H. Frazier. P.H. Ward’s Escape from Singapore I left Singapore (with an official authorisation to do so, signed by my Brigade Commander, Brigadier F.H. Fraser, D.S.O. Commander 2nd Malaya Infantry Brigade) on the R.A.S.C. motor launch “Cecilia”, on the evening of Saturday 14th February 1942, with Brigadier Paris, Lt. Col. Douglas, IEME, S/Condr H.W. Hollins R.A.S.C. and approximately 42 others. On Sunday 15th February, apart from encountering some British male civilians (Government employees we ascertained, whose morale was at rock bottom) aiming for Sumatra as were we, and a Japanese recce plane which gave us the “once over” but didn’t return, we passed a quiet day. Brigadier Paris and Lt. Col. Douglas both die following enemy action ex-Padang. During those last few days in Singapore I had been been confined (quite literally – no telephone calls or any contact with the outside world allowed) inside the YMCA in Orchard Road. I had the nostalgic pleasure of visiting the YMCA in June 1979 and found that it hadn’t changed very much structurally as far as I could make out. Note: Dad visited us whilst we were living in Singapore and I could easily have accompanied him on a similar journey to re-trace his steps but Dad never really talked about this episode in his life. On reaching the coast of Sumatra, we sailed up the Djambi River to the town of Djambi (now spelt Jambi) where the kind and most helpful Dutch authorities exchanged our (by now) unsuitable launch for a flat-bottomed river craft and also gave us a goodly supply of provisions, (by this time we’d consumed all our tinned “M and V” {Meat and Veg} from Singapore) from a local godown. We continued to Muaratebo where we had a route march and tonsorial “treatment” by the local barber. The journey continued by boat, motorcoach and railway to Padang by way of Sawah Lunto. The journey by coach through the Padang Highlands was hair-raising and memorable for the wrongest of reasons.” Brigadier Fraser escaped aboard the Dutch ship Rooseboom, which was sunk off Sumatra. Although he survived the sinking along with about 80 other passengers in one lifeboat, he did not survive the shocking 28-day ordeal of drifting 100 miles. There were only five survivors. Note: Dad was lucky to have been issued a berth on a much slower and smaller vessel which, fortunately, was less likely to have been a satisfactory target for a Japanese submarine. We'll never know why Dad wasn't allowed a berth on the SS Rooseboom with the Argyll and Southerland Highlanders with whom he'd left Singapore before their overland crossing of Sumatra. Dad suggested he was required to stay in Padang to assist with administration duties.  The SS Rooseboom was a Dutch steamship of 1035 tons built in 1926 by Rijkee & Co. of Rotterdam. The vessel sailed on the evening of February 27th with Brigadier Paris (who had escaped Singapore on the Cecilia with my Dad) and 600 troops and civilians on board. Four days later she was sunk off Ceylon (now Sri lanka) and only five survived.  The SS Tinombo which Dad travelled on from Padang to Colombo and on to Bombay.  Taken from Dad’s Army Service Record which shows that due to the chaos after the Fall of Singapore the Army had no idea if he was still alive or been made a P.O.W. After a few days in Padang, where elements of the A.I.F. seemed to be well established under the command of Major-General Gordon Bennett, we left round about the evening of 26th February (I’m guessing, really) on the SS Tinombo, a Dutch East Indies coastal freighter more commonly seen on the Timor, Celibes, New Guinea run – that sort of area. On board we were allotted ‘hold’ accommodation and a supply of rice (only) for the voyage. We later learned, though not confirmed, that the ship had already been en route from Padang to Bombay, when she had been sent back to Padang on the orders of General Wavell in order to collect up ‘remnants’ (which included Dad). We arrived in Bombay, as far as I can remember, around 14th March, after a brief call heightened by excellent sandwiches from some British ladies at the Transit Camp Colaba, where we were kitted out completely as we had all left Singapore with only what we stood up in, plus rifle and ammunition, and looked after exceedingly well, the R.A.S.C. and R.A.O.C. went to Agra to the vacant (Akbar Barracks) from where subsequent postings took place. I have a map of my route through Sumatra. On arrival in India, I was ‘requested’ by GHQ to send a full report as a ‘Far East Straggler’ (for such we were officially designated for pay purposes etc. – well they had to call us something!) Note: Later, Dad told us that when he was about to leave Singapore he gave his Bible (or Book of Common Prayer) to a soldier who had to stay behind. This soldier was captured by the Japanese. After the war Dad was in a Dentist’s waiting room in Bristol. He read in a magazine there, about a soldier who was captured at Singapore who was trying to contact a soldier who had given him a Bible before he left Singapore. Dad made contact with this ex-soldier & it was the man he had given the Bible to. This man said that the Bible had helped him get through his incarceration with the Japanese. Dad said that he could keep the Bible. He also told us that he was on a train near Agra with a fellow soldier. They were both smoking their pipes. When dad left the train, he forgot his pipe. Years later he was travelling on a train in England when he noticed a man smoking a familiar looking pipe. He asked the man where he got the pipe from and was told that he found it on a train in India during the Second World War. It was Dad’s pipe!  1944 Agra, India - Dad is on the right   Colombo harbour in 1971 - I was a young Navigating officer on board the SS British Soldier, offloading 32,000 tons of crude oil from Kharg Island in the Arabian Gulf.  The area above is where my father and other small boats would pass after getting safely across the Singapore Straights on February 15th 1942. Sailing by night the small boats would hide in the island mangroves during the day to avoid being spotted by Japanese aircraft. Their objective was to reach the mouth of the Batang Hari River to get up to the port of Jambi to proceed overland to Padang on the west coast of Sumatra. APPENDIX 1: tHE ESCAPE FROM SINGAPORE BY RICHARD GOUGH I found the above publication a fascinating read and gave me a greater insight into my Dad's escape to freedom. There were three references to the boat Cecilia: Page 96: Another vessel at sea that night was a medium-sized yacht, the Cecilia, with Brigadier Paris on board together with some of his Argylls. Page 131: When the officers learnt that General Percival was considering the possibility of surrender they made plans to save as many of their men as possible. Those believed to have escaped on the Cecilia included: Brigadier Paris with more of his Argylls including Major Angus McDonald, Captain Michael Blackwood and Private Hardy. Page 195: Cecilia - Described as a motor launch but may have been a yacht sailed on February 15th with 44 selected passengers on board including the names mentioned above. Most of her passengers subsequently joined the ill-fated Rooseboom and drowned after the torpedo attack four days later. APPENDIX 2: The rooseboom dutch cargo ship which dad hadn't been allowed to board in padang was torpedoed by japanese submarine i-159 on March 1st 1942 at 0150hrs This account of the struggle for survival after the sinking of the Rooseboom was based on survivor and Argyll and Sutherland Highlander Walter Gibson's book, The Boat and taken from his obituary in the Times On Line (April 27th 2005): “On the third night out from Padang a torpedo struck the Rooseboom, which very soon capsized and sank, taking most of her 500 passengers with her and leaving only one lifeboat seaworthy. This boat, designed to hold 28, was now occupied by 80 of the 135 who had survived the sinking. The remainder clung to lifelines and floating debris. The senior surviving soldier, Brigadier Paris, took charge of discipline in the boat, while informing the survivors that the Dutch captain of the Rooseboom, who had also survived, was in overall command. The best of discipline was futile in the face of the privations that now ensued. Men and women went mad with thirst. Many threw themselves overboard rather than face further suffering. In Gibson’s account, a gang of renegade soldiers positioned themselves in the bows and at night systematically pushed the weaker survivors overboard to make the meagre rations go further, until attacked by the others and flung overboard themselves. Brigadier Paris died, hallucinating before he fell into his final coma. The Dutch captain was killed by one of his own engineers. The numbers of the living dwindled rapidly. By the time the lifeboat fetched up on Sipora, a coral island off Sumatra (a mere 100 miles from their starting point of Padang), only Gibson, a Chinese girl, Doris Lin, with whom he had developed a bond during those terrible weeks, and three Javanese remained. One of the latter drowned in the surf as they tried to get ashore. The remaining Javanese disappeared. After a period being tended by natives Gibson and Doris Lin were found by patrolling Japanese. He was returned to Padang as a POW. He later learned that she had been shot as a spy by the Japanese. [Taken from Wikipedia] Appendix 3: maps - THE ESCAPE ROUTE FROM SINGAPORE TO PADANG The Cecilia passed through the Berhala Straights and into the delta of the Batang Hari River which was known as the Djambi River in 1942. The river banks were lined with mangrove swamps in the journey upriver to Jambi. once in Jambi, the Dutch administration transferred them to smaller, flat-bottomed boats upstream to Muaratebo from where trucks transported them to Sawah Lunto and on by train down to Padang.   The Portable Altitude Chamber (PAC) On all my High Altitude TREKS and expeditions (20+ Himalyan trips) there has been a portable hyperbaric chamber in my equipment inventory.Portable Hyperbaric Chambers are capsules constructed of lightweight but very durable materials which are airtight with a zipped entrance for the person to gain entry to it. They are considered to be bulky and heavy and not always carried to higher altitudes. I believe all treks and expedition operating to a Very High Altitude (defined as 3500m – 5800m) should carry a portable hyperbaric chamber. Beyond high base camps though, they will be classed as bulky and heavy so the base camp is where they would be located on more technical and higher expedition routes. I once had to use a portable hyperbaric chamber for a person who was very ill with severe AMS at Gokyo Lakes (5000m) and thankful that I had access to this equipment. We had oxygen available but it was a limited supply and didn't last the night. It kept him comfortable until the daylight medevac flight to Kathmandu where he was diagnosed with HAPE. At an altitude of 5000m, the simulated altitude inside the PAC when pressurised is approximately 3250m. The guidelines for a person suffering from altitude related illnesses are: STOP - REST - TREAT - DESCEND. Often it is impossible to make a safe night time descent with the casualty so the portable hyperbaric chamber allows the casualty to achieve the descent requirement whilst waiting for a daylight medevac flight. The portable hyperbaric chamber is inflated with a foot pump resulting in an increase in barometric pressure within the chamber for simulated descent which is monitored by utilising an altimeter inside the chamber. The process is labour intensive as the foot pump is used every 5 seconds for the chamber to remain correctly inflated. Outside of the chamber, the casualty must be continuously monitored by another team member through the access window. Portable hyperbaric chambers have been proven to treat all forms of altitude illness. A casualty can be removed temporarily during the night if required but the positive effects of being inside the chamber do not last long once outside of the chamber. Descent is always the most important factor to consider. The following advice applies to portable hyperbaric chambers:
Bryn Walking offer the following REC courses which I deliver:
Private courses are available on request.  November 12th/13th rec (l5) travel & expedition first aid at sennybridge camp in the bannau brycheiniog national park for 9 participantsThis 16hr REC Advanced First Aid course was for 9 participants who were all highly qualified and very experienced outdoor professionals. Their primary role is to train new army recruits in a range of outdoor adventurous skills. Bryn Walking advanced training courses have a maximum of 9 participants. Alan Ward (International Mountain Leader) was the Course Tutor. A two day course (16 hours). The Travel and Expedition First Aid course is designed to introduce a systematic way of advanced first aid for managing casualties in remote areas and at high altitude. Topic learning and practicals intermixed with scenarios of real situations. The course includes:
This Travel & Expedition First Aid course is assessed in various ways including: REC L2 Individual Test Paper, Structured assessment of outdoor scenarios, a REC L5 Team Challenge Test Paper and continuous assement during the course. Course feedback: The greatest strengths of this course -
gallery: choking (choking charlie - actfast choking vests - lifevac antichoking device) - cpr (QCPR manikins with electronic performance monitors) - aedgallery: portable altitude chamber (PAC)gallery: outdoor scenariosGAllery - miscellaneous 9/11/2024 Bannau Brycheiniog National Park Visitor CeNTRE - FIRST AID TRAINING by BRYN WALKING LIMITED (ALAN WARD)Read Now november 11th: Basic Life Support (BLS) First Aid training for 5 staff at the Bannau Brycheiniog National park Visitor centreHaving delivered many First Aid courses for National Park Authority staff since 2002, it was a pleasure to offer this First Aid training yesterday by Bryn Walking. Alan Ward (International Mountain Leader) was the course tutor. Core subjects delivered:
Additionally, the Royal Geographical Society (RGS) Off Site Safety Management (OSSM) course is available - the next course is at the Cwmcarn visitor Centre on January 13th/14th. Equipment used by Bryn Walking:
Rescue Emergency Care (REC) was established in 1986 and is one of the United Kingdom's Specialist First Aid Training organisations. A quality assurance scheme ensures quality First Aid training is delivered and Bryn Walking courses also comply with ISO9001:2015 Quality Management Systems to:
RGS OFF SITE SAFETY MANAGEMENT Brecon: October 17th/18th for 5 candidatesThe off-site safety management course has been designed to increase delegates’ knowledge, understanding and skills in planning, managing and evaluating the safety of off-site visits in a number of different contexts. It is intended to meet the needs of groups organising a very wide range of activities both in the UK and abroad. It is particularly relevant to teachers, social workers, expedition leaders and university lecturers, especially those who are responsible for off-site visits within their organisations, such as geographical and biological fieldwork, adventurous outdoor activities and cultural visits. Topics covered in the course are relevant to those operating to the British Standard 8848 - specification for the provision of visits, fieldwork, expeditions, and adventurous activities outside the United Kingdom. ContentThe course is divided into three sections, each representing a vital stage in managing an off-site activity/event: Planning for the event This section addresses those aspects of planning which must be completed before the group departs in order to ensure the safe management of the event. It includes assessing the needs of the group, arranging the necessary staffing, and undertaking a risk assessment. Managing the event This section addresses the key management requirements relating to group safety during an activity including appropriate actions and procedures required when dealing with both minor and major incidents and contingencies. Evaluating the event This section addresses the essential review of the whole event that must be carried out to effectively improve future planning and practice.   SEPTEMBER 8TH: CARDIFF - PLYMOUthThis trip, planned and booked so long ago, had finally arrived. The three hour drive down to Plymouth was easy enough and the roads were relatively quiet. Check-in at Britanny Ferries for their Pont-Aven was at 1345 but we were there two hours before that and ate our picnic lunch and read. Check-in was easy enough and a special sticker indicated we'd board first as we'd paid for speedy disembarkation in Santander. There were hundreds of motorbikes ready to board and I spoke to several of those parked alongside us. The Pont-Aven duly arrived and, after the motorbikes, we were next to board and found ourselves at the front of the main deck on the port side. With our hand baggage we were soon up in our spacious Commodore Class Cabin 8411 and went to the Commodore Lounge for a coffee and to watch all the remaining vehicles drive on through the stern ramp. The Commodore Lounge was particularly disappointing as there was nothing there other than a hot drinks machine. I went forward to the bar and brought back wine for us to drink as the vessel was getting under way and we left Plymouth behind. Dinner in the Flora Restaurant was excellent, as was the service. A night cap back in our cabin and I was asleep by around 9.30pm. september 9th: santander - san sebastianThere had been some vessel movement in the early hours but we went back to sleep until around 0800. After showering we went for breakfast, again to the Flora Restaurant, as it was included in our ticket. I thought breakfast was excellent. After breakfast we relaxed in our cabin but went for a walk later in the morning and picked up a packed lunch for our drive after we disembarked. Yolande bought a bottle of Limoncello for our holiday and we already had Gin and Whisky in our car. Disembarkation was speedy and immigration effortless and we were soon on the A8 heading eastwards on the motorway which had some tolls on our way and we passed Bilbao to San Sebastian. Close to Bilbao we stopped at services to get a coffee and eat our lunch and after about 2.5hrs arrived at our desination, the Mercure Monte Igueldo on a hilltop at 175m which overlooked San Sebastian Bay. Check in was easy enough and we were allocated Room 430 which was a bit like an inside cabin on a ship but did have a small window looking towards the mountains. We went to the bar to enjoy our Accor welcome drinks but I thought the bar staff far from welcoming and a bit surly. We looked at the menu which was a bit expensive and somewhat limited for Yolande being GF and unable to eat seafood. We took a taxi down to the centro or old town for a walk and whilst there were lots of pintxos bar/cafes there were few proper restaurants. Eventually we found San Sebastian's oldest (est. 1947) restaurant and we were shown to a nice table in the Juanito Kojua Restaurant. We were looked after very well and enjoyed a good three course dinner with a fine red from the Bilbao wine growing region. Heavy rain accompanied us to a nearby taxi rank and, being third in line, we were soon back at our hotel and in Room 430. september 10th: In san sebastian'Waking after a reasonable night's sleep we went down to breakfast in the dining room which overlooked San Sebastian Bay. Sadly, breakfast wasn't as good as on the Pont-Aven and in particular, the fried eggs were cold. This was hardly what I expected from a Mercure Hotel. We were ready at the Funicular Station for the 1030 descent down to the corniche and walked all the way around the bay. We stopped for a coffee at a traditional cafe and then explored the centro old town. With the GF issue many of the places we looked at for lunch didn't appear to be suited for Yolande but we went into a Pintxos Bar where the staff were GF aware and we enjoyed a very nice lunch. Almost all of the clientelle were local people so it was nice to have found such a local place to lunch at. We'd looked at the main market before lunch so went back there to buy takeaway sushi for our evening meal in the hotel room and reached there late afternoon by taxi. We walked around Monte Igueldo as next to the hotel were benches on the terraces and the weather had cleared up for some photography of San Sebastian Bay. We then sat in the hotel lounge for an hour reading before returning to our room for the rest of the evening and our sushi. Uno for an hour finished off the day for us with a chilled Limoncello before lights out. september 11th: San SEbastian - PamplonaMore cold and sad looking eggs for breakfast and we were on the road by 1000. The front desk manager was Indonesian so we exchanged a few words of Bahasa Indonesia which I think surprised her. Our route was eastwards to the French border and then southwards on the A121 across the mountains and down into Pamplona and our hotel, the NH Iruna Park where we arrived at around midday. Suprisingly we were allowed to check in and soon up in Room 903 which was very nice and spacious. The hotel had an underground secure car park which we used for Euros 11 per night. After unpacking we enjoyed a light lunch in the hotel restaurant before walking into the old town, after a brief visit to the supermarket next door. As I'd enjoyed a hotel lunch, but Yolande hadn't sadly, we thought we'd have a room picnic for tea time later. We walked through the Vuelta del Castillo Park passing the moats and city walls and then headed over to the Plaza del Castillo which is considered the heart of the city. After enjoying a late afternoon drink in a pleasant cafe on Taconera we then walked back to our hotel. Our tea time room picnic went well with a local wine. september 12th - in pamplonaAfter a comfortable night's sleep we enjoyed the NH Hotel breakfast offerings which greatly exceeded what we'd had at the Mercure San Sebastian. Even the staff were friendlier here too. After breakfast we took a taxi to the Fortin de San Bartolome where the "Pamplona is City Walls" walk started. The Bull Ring was passed first but there was no option for viewing inside the second largest bullring in Spain with a capacity for 19,721 spectators. We then walked along the Ronda del Obispo Barbazan to the Rincon del Caballo Blanco viewpoint. Our next stop was the Santa Maria la Real Cathedral where for a nominal Euros 4 each we looked inside this spectacular building and the adjacent cloisters. The Mercado de Santiago Domingo was next and this was an enjoyable market with lots of interesting food stalls. Just along the outside the market hall was the El Redin Gastrobar which looked interesting and we were to return here for lunch. Our walk continued along the Cuesta de Curtidores and into the Jardines de la Taconera before we headed back to the El Redin Gastrobar along Maya and then Estafeta Street, possibly one of the most well known streets in the world as it is on the San Fermin Bull Run route which takes place every July. Back in the El Redin Gastrobar we enjoyed a pre-lunch drink in the bar whilst we waited for 1.30 for their restaurant to open. We were shown the translated menu on the waitresses mobile phone and we ordered:
This fabulous meal with pre-lunch drinks and wine with the meal cost approximately £40 so is therefore highly recommended. The staff were very friendly and helpful, particularly with regard to "Sin Gluten" for Yolande. Whilst we were enjoying lunch, Yolande decided we'd take the regional train out to Olite tomorrow to view the castle complex there. After lunch we passed the corrales below the Museo de Navarra which is where the bull run starts. At the station we booked our train tickets for the 0745 tomorrow and then walked back to the hotel. Our evening was spent in our very spacious Room 903 for cheese and wine followed by Uno. september 13th - to oliteIt was an early wake up ready to be down at the Breakfast Room for 0700 with a taxi ordered for 0720 to Pamplona Estacion for the 0745 train to Olite. The train departed more or less on time and we arrived at Olite after about 40 minutes. Due to a very low platform it was quite difficult to disembark from the train and Yolande had to sit on the floor whilst I helped her jump down to the platform. Our fares were Euros 3.50 each way for both of us which we thought was very reasonable. The Palace Real de Olite was spectacular as we approached it through the stone archway but as it was only about 0830 it wasn't open yet. In fact, most of the town was closed but the Ducay Hotel coffee shop was open so we went in to warm up as it was a cool morning and the coffee was excellent. We explored the old town, noticing many people dressed in red and white so we wondered if it was a holiday. At 1000 we went into the Information Office but didn't learn much we didn't already know so we went to the Palace Real de Olite and paid Euros 2.50 each for our entrance. The 15th Century Palace Real de Olite is regarded as a gem of Navarrese Gothic style and was a heavily fortified structure with lots of palatial halls and towers to climb via narrow spiral starircases with great views. Leaving the Palace Real de Olite we wandered the narrow streets which surrounded the castle as increasing numbers of red and white clothed people filled the main square. On re-entering the main square huge caricatures of the nobility were being carried into the area and displayed on the covered stage. At midday, the bands began to play and young people began to dance whilst being sprayed with what looked like fire extinguishers in the main square full of people celebrating on this Friday before a week of celebrations which included a Saturday bull run through the town. As the celebrations were coming to an end we thought we'd look for a lunch venue but our efforts failed as every table in every restaurant was reserved for red and white clothed locals. We were down at the station an hour before the crowded 1445 train stopped to pick us up. After arriving back in Pamplona we walked back to our hotel for cheese and biscuits and a fine bottle of Chardonnay purchased on board the Pont-Aven. september 14th: pamplona to canfrancBreakfast was at 0800 but as we were already packed it was a leisurely breakfast and check-out and on the road by 1000. It was a sunny morning but not too warm as we drove out of Pamplona and headed eastwards on the very good A-21. We passed the large Embalse de Yesa lake to arrive at Jaca where we turned north on the N-330 and arrived at our Canfranc Estacion Hotel by 1230. Since 1853 the Aragonese have been trying to open the Pyrenees to France by train through the Somport and after 75 years this was finally achieved. During WW2 the station played a strategic role as a transit centre for refugies and spies. The line closed in 1970 but the station was newly inaugurated in 2020. We were warmly welcomed in the hotel with a glass of champagne and Sergio one of the porters ensured we were correctly parked and took our luggage to our room. Checking in was effortless and our upgraded room was available which was a bonus. Room 229 was very pleasant with a large lounge area and separate bedroom. We enjoyed drinks and a light lunch in the bar downstairs but ordering lunches for Yolande seems difficult in Spain. We both had a Mozarella and Tomato Salad before heading out for a walk. Canfranc Estacion was inagurated on July 18th 1928 and was the largest station in Europe and an icon of railway architecture. Today, as a 5* hotel the building is in excellent condition and a fabulous place to stay. Today there was a 34Km Ultra Mountain Race with 2000m of ascent and we watched runners crossing the finishing line just outside the hotel. I took photos for a very smartly dressed couple who had been to a nearby wedding and they asked me if I'd finished the race early! On our walk around the hotel and the small village we enjoyed a glass of wine whilst watching the world go by along with some of the later race runners. Siesta in our room with drinks before dinner at 2000 with excellent food but only average service. september 15th: Canfranc into andorraLeaving the Canfranc Estacion our route took us back to Jaca where we joined the N-260 which took us almost to Andorra crossing four or five high mountain passes up to 1750m with more hairpin bends than I've ever experienced before. N-260 is listed as one of the best motorcycle classic routes in Spain and is the northernmost west to east road in Spain. Our Google Map 5hrs route took us 8hrs to complete so we arrived feeling quite tired. NH Collection Andorra Palome is a boutique hotel located at an altitude of 1751m and is reached by road in 15mins from Andorra la Vella, the capital of Andorra. The hotel is housed in a building that once a sawmill and has 34 rooms with ours being a Superior Balcony Room 206 which whilst being nicely furnished was on the compact side. Breakfasts were good as were the two evening meals we enjoyed. september 16th: In andorraAfter an enjoyable NH Hotels breakfast we decided we'd drive up to the high pass which sits on the border with France, Port de Cabrus (2301m). We stopped at the pretty village of Pal following the CG4 route from Erts. The drive was enjoyable and we stopped at the "Storm in a teacup" iron pipe structure by Dennis Oppenheim which opened in 1991 to commemorate the 25th anniversary of the Andorran Social Security. The structure exudes the hidden magic that is (apparently) latent in the forces of nature. At the pass we photographed a herd of wild horses which were quite friendly and not worried about being in the close proximity of people. We stopped for a coffee on the way down and once in our valley but higher than our hotel we enjoyed lunch in Arinsal at the Coffee Mountain/Arinsal Bakery where the salads were particularly good and the vino blanco quite refreshing. That afternoon, from our hotel, we took the 15 bus down into the capital Andorra la Vella (1013m) just to see what the place looked like. We didn't buy anything and found the duty free alcohol prices almost the same as alcohol prices back home in supermarkets when on special offers. september 17th: in andorrammAfter another good breakfast we headed off down our valley and then turned onto CG3 towards Ordino (1298m) and beyond up the CG3 into the high ski resorts run by Ordino Arcalis (2229m) and parked there. We had a choice of an hours walk up to the three lakes (Estany Primer @ 2249m, Estany Del mig @ 2288m and Estany De Mes Amunt @ 2306m) or take the open sit ski lift to the high ridge above the ski resort and then walk the last 100m of ascent up to the Mirador Solar de Trstaina @ 2701m where the giant sundial awaited us. The all round views were stunning and down to the three lakes which lie below Pic De Tristainwa @3878m. After taking in the views we walked back down to the ski resort but this was a tough track descent of about 500m with some sections being quite steep. Lunch was at the Restaurant La Coma in the ski resort where we both enjoyed local rice dishes not dissimilar to paella. After lunch we explored the surrounding areas where there where some fine examples of The Orris which are examples of old farm livestock architecture dating back to the 17th and 19th centuries but these were re-built in the 20th century. These old traditional buildings where were the sheep were milked and cheese made. Late in the afternoon we returned to our hotel and later, room cheese and biscuits with an enjoyable wine. september 18th: in andorra (to the Vall d'incles & roc del quer mirador)For our last day in Andorra we decided to head east on CG2 through Encamp and Canillo and up to the top end of the Vall d'Incles on CS236. The single lane route up to the head of the valley passed colourful properties, all adorned with floral troughs or hanging baskets. In fact, everywhere was the same across Andorra from remote cottages to multi-storey hotels in the main towns. At the head of the valley I spent some time photographing images of a new whisky product for the distilling company which I'd previously done some photography for. The area was surrounded by spectacular mountain scenery and a few colourful farm properties. Sadly the restaurant was closed between the summer and winter seasons and this was quite common across Andorra during our September stay. Leaving the valley and back onto the CG2 we drove eastwards to Soldeau for lunch. Our children had been skiing there once so we were curious to see the place. In the Restaurant Bruxelles where we stopped for lunch I enjoyed a fabulous pepperoni pizza whilst Yolande had a very average mozarella and tomato salad. Our return route to our hotel was from Canillo over the CS240 mountain road with multiple hairpin bends with a stop at the Roc del Quer Mirador which cost us Euros 5 each to visit the vantage viewpoint and The Ponderer sculpture at the end of the walkway. The viewpoint provides spectacular views of the valleys of Montaup and Valira d'Orient. Back at the hotel to dine in, Chef Pedro offered us complimentary wine and crisps because he was late opening the main restaurant as he was supervising a large Chinese school group from the NH hotel down in the capital - Andorra la Vella (1013m). Our dinner was very good with Yolande enjoying a pork dish whilst I opted for the duck. Some packing before bedtime in readiness for an early departure in the morning to Monseratt and Badalona (Barcelona). september 19th: Andorra - monseratt - badalonaDressed and packed by the time breakfast opened at 0800, we were on the road south out of Andorra by about 0830. We weren't stopped leaving the country and soon after the border we turned eastwards on the N-260. Beyond Bellverde Cerdanya our route turned southwards, passing through a 5Km tunnel (Euros 13.90) on a modern road with spectacular scenery passing the towns of Baga, Berga and Gironella on C-16. We needed a break so pulled off C-16 into a small village (Puig-Reig) where we found a wonderful hotel coffee shop which was quite delightful. We purchased packed lunches here to eat at Monastir de Monseratt. They even provided Yolande with a gluten free roll. We arrived at the rack railway station car park by about midday and caught the 1215 train up to the monastry site. The station and trains were very new looking and the three storey free car park quite huge. It was a scenic ride up to the top station and after disembarking we took the Saint Joan Funicular up to the top viewing point which was well worth the effort. We didn't need to stay long at the top viewing point so took the funicular back down to the very crowded main monastry levels where we ate our packed lunches. We had purchased our tickets online from home. Most of the chapels and other buildings required additional charges and as we felt we'd seen what we wanted to we caught a crowded train back to our station car park. It was a long 1.5hrs to Badalona via the built up areas of Sabadell and Ripoollet and we arrived at our sea front Hotel Miramar. The hotel garage only had space for three cars so we were glad we'd booked and paid our reservation in advance. After unpacking in our quite spacious sea-view room we went out to buy provisions for our room fridge and then went for a walk over to Badalona Estacion where, on the sea front, we enjoyed drinks with the waves crashing almost at our feet. Beyond our hotel westwards on the seafront we found a Mexican restaurant called Mexclat which turned out to be excellent. The margaritas were excellent and the best nachos we've ever experienced followed although we did have to request jalapenos! For our main course we shared a plate of pork tacos and these were filled genourosly and very tasty. It was then just a short walk back to the hotel. september 20th: in badalona + barcelonaAfter a very good night's sleep we woke to find it was raining heavily which caused a dampener on our day's activities. The hotel didn't provide breakfast so we'd popped around to the nearby Cosin Supermercado and purchased a few breakfast items. After breakfast we decided to wait a couple of hours to see if the weather improved. With the weather having improved we caught the R1 Regional Train into Barcelona for an exploratory afternoon in the city. Disembarking at Catalunya we walked towards the Gothic Quarter and enjoyed a very good lunch in a restaurant called Cer el Cle which had a large and very crowded dining terrace outside but a rather elegant indoor area where we chose to sit. I enjoyed a Sashimi/Sushi dish whilst Yolande chose Roast Chicken/Potatoes and both dishes were very good. We shared a Catalan Creme Brule as a dessert. The Gothic Quarter wasn't hugely of interest to us so we continued down to the Port Vell area where there was still much of interest from the very recent America's Cup. Looking at the other boats in the marina we saw the ancient looking harbour cable car at the World Trade Centre before planning our route back to Badalona by aiming for the Arc de Triomf regional railway station. We walked past and through the mainline station Estacio de Franca and throuh the Parc de la Ciutadella, where there were small green paraqueets playing in the grass, to look at the large Arc de Triomf before catching the R1 train back to Badalona for the short walk back to our Hotel Miramar. That evening we went back to the Mexclat for another very good Mexican dinner. After dinner we went for a walk into the centre of Badalona to recce the Metro station for our journey into Barcelona tomorrow. september 21st: in barcelonaAfter our in-room picnic breakfast, very basic, we walked to the Badalona Metro to get into central Barcelona where we alighted at the Sagrada Famalia Metro which was directly outside the Metro and which looked very impressive even with all the construction cranes present. After a simple breakfast and coffee we went into the Sagrada Familia for our 1030 reservation with a tower reservation at 1045. These tickets were also booked in advance. The building required airport type security but we were soon inside and even as crowded as it was it was still impressive. After a brief queue for the lift we were whisked up high where various small platforms got us close to the main towers. The spiral descent in dark lighting provided a slow and careful descent down to the main level below. Walking around the base of Sagrada Familia we stopped at the Placa de Gaudi for one of the best views across the small lake to the Sagrada Familia. Our next objective of the day was the new business tower, Torre Glories, where we'd be whisked up to the highest point in Barcelona for just a few euros. We were there early so enjoyed a drink at the Hoxton Hotel restaurant in their terrace bar. Reaching the 38th-story of Torre Glories gave us 360 degree views of Barcelona and with my Nikon camera equipment I was able to take some great images of the Basilica de la Sagrada also known as Sagrada Familia which we'd visited earlier. After Torre Glories we returned to the Hoxton Hotel for lunch which was very enjoyable. Taking a taxi to the Placa Catalunya square we then walked down the very crowded La Rambla, a notable street in Barcelona, before catching the Metro back to Badalona. A sea view room picnic of cheese and wine ended a very busy day in a crowded city.  september 22nd - in badalonaThis was planned as a rest day before tomorrow when we were todrive to Valancia for three nights. I downloaded images from my iPhone and Nikon D750 which I'd been doing on a fairly regular basis before spending an hour or so writing up my website blog. At 1230 we walked over to the Mexclat restaurant for a sushi lunch which was very enjoyable. After lunch we walked along the promenade to the Indian restaurant to book a table for our evening meal. After that we reurned to our hotel room and balcony and I also wrote a few more notes on my website blog. Dinner at the Curcuma Badalona Indian Restaurant was very good and the owner very helpful and friendly for an enjoyable dinner on our last night in Badalona. I'd enjoyed our seafront Hotel Miramar with a great balcony and the sound of waves quite audible from across the seafront. The hotel needed some love and attention but is only 3*** and adequate for our three nights there. september 23rd: badalona to valencia0800 from the hotel saw us experiencing rush hour traffic until we joined the E-15 which would take us all the way to Valencia in just over 4hrs. We stopped a few times at services and arrived at the AC Marriott Hotel Valencia at about 1230 where Room 918 was made available to us on our arrival. The underground secure car park was easy to access. After some unpacking we enjoyed a light lunch in the lobby hotel restaurant. We thought we'd better visit the railway station to find out about trains for our planned visit to Xativa tomorrow. We walked to Estacion Valencia Nord via the Jardin del Turia which was a pleasant walk through well maintained gardens where once there was a river. We walked past the spectacular Palau de la Musica, a concert hall built in the 1980's. At the station we didn't really find out much about our rail plans for the following day so returned by taxi to the hotel. Dinner was Japanese just a short walk from the hotel to the Placa d'Europe roundabout and the Okawa Restaurant dinner was good in that customers cook it themselves and it was a pleasant experience which took about 1.5hrs in total before we returned to the hotel. september 24th: In valenciaThis was to be a day trip to Xativa following advice from Helen Menhinick who recommended this destination to view the Castillo de Xativa which sits above the town of Xativa on the narrow ridge of Mount Vernissa at 350m altitude. We'd researched Renfe trains but there was some confusion about timetables and departures from Valencia but our knowledgable taxi driver took us to Valencia Nord where we purchased our round trip tickets and boarded the 1035 train. Arriving in Xativa about an hour later we soon found a taxi for the Euros 12 trip up to the Castillo de Xativa. We paid our Euros 6 each entrance tickets and spent an hour climbing up to and exploring the Upper Castle. It really was an inspiring fortification and back down at the Placa d'Armes, Yolande decided to rest whilst I nipped up to the Lower Castle. The ticket office kindly booked us a taxi back down to town where we were dropped off in the central area to look for a lunch venue. Black Pork Jambonerie was an exceptionally good find where we spent over an hour enjoying drinks and lunch. This bar restaurant is highly recommended, even for those with GF requirements like Yolande who thought her GF Baguette was very good. The staff were very friendly and helpful and we purchased a bottle of red to take back to our Valencia hotel. We caught a train at about 1530 hrs and were back into Valencia Nord before 1700 for a taxi back to the hotel. We walked over to the C.C. AQUA shopping complex for tea at Tony Roma's, an Americal Diner. The shared nachos were excellent as were the ribs we each had for mains and the service very good too. september 25th: In valenciaFollowing on from our arrival day here in Valencia today would be a full day of sightseeing. After breakfast a taxi took us to the Torres de Serranos, one of the twelve gates that formed part of the ancient city wall, the Christian Wall, of the city of Valencia, Spain. It was built in the Valencian Gothic style at the end of the 14th century and a Euros 2 ticket each enabled us to climb to the uppermost ramparts. Continuing through the old town we arrived as planned at the Mercado Central. This huge iron, glass and tile building with its parrot and swordfish weather-vanes opened in 1928 and is one of the largest and most attractive markets in Europe with over 300 stalls. We loved walking around this fadcinating structure and finished with a drink at one of the bars outside, Bar La Lonja. In Plaza Del Ayuntamiento we enjoyed a very nice salad and glass of wine at the Velencia Bernardo Hernandez 100% Iberico Bar/Restaurant (www.beher.com) which has venues across Spain. The avocado salads were quite amazing in the way they were presented, generous quantities and taste. We passed Estacion Nord and the Bullring as we headed in the general direction of our hotel but via the hugely impressive Palau de les Arts building where we enjoyed a Morado cocktail in the pleasant surroundings with water lakes all around us. Walking along the garden terrace we passed the Hemisferic and Museo de les Ciences buildings, again they were very impressve structures. Crossing the Pont l'Assut de l'Or bridge we popped into the El Corte Ingles shopping centre to buy a few items in their basement supermarket and then walked back to our hotel. It was another cheese and wine tea time with views over towards the port area where there were different cruise liners in every day. september 26th: valencia to zaragozaOWe were on the road soon after breakfast and leaving the city onto the A-23 Autovia Mudejar which, leaving the coast behind, climbed to over 1200m for much of the way with buffeting strong winds from the west. We passed Teruel Airport which has the most aircraft grounded anywhere in Europe. Currently there are over 130 aircraft in storage there, including some from British Airways. Stored aircraft range in size from the Boeing 737 in all it's variants up to the A380 with a dozen of these stored there. Beyond Teruel we stopped at services briefly with us finally reaching the NH Ciudad Hotel in Zaragoza by about 1pm. Our room was ready for us so after dropping the bags off we went down to the restaurant for a light lunch. The restaurant was mostly occupied by a noisy corporate group so we moved out into the front bar area to eat our lunch. Room 709 was quite satisfactory and had a river facing balcony. After lunch and some unpacking we set out to explore Zaragoza. We walked along the wide riverside path between Punte de Santiago and Puenta de Piedra before turning into the old centre to source somewhere for our evening meal and opted for the Tragantua Gran Taberna where we were told we didn't need to make a reservation. We returned to the hotel via the narrow streets of the old town and the very large Plaza del Pilar which is quite impressive. As it was getting dark we walked back to the Tragantua Gran Taberna for the 2000 opening time but it was gone 2015 before anyone was allowed inside as the staff were still laying tables and making general preparations. Our waiter was far from welcoming and friendly and wanted us to rush into ordering everything in one go. He wasn't particularly happy when we ordered our wine and we said we'd have a drink as we were looking through the menu. Our meal choices were good but it's a shame the service was poor. Looking at the dessert menu we gave up waiting for our orders to be taken and paid the bill. The Cathedral and buildings around the Plaza del Pilar were all illuminated and looked good. september 27th: a day trip to madridThis day trip to Madrid had been my idea and was quite costly so I was hoping Yolande would enjoy the day. I'd treated us to First Class tickets which included reserved seating and a simple meal both ways. The railway company is called Iryo, a Spanish high-speed train operator competing with state-owned Renfe on key routes. Iryo launced in November 2022 and is a consortium of Tenitalia and Air Nostrum using a vwesion of Tenitalia's Frecciarosso 1000 trains - we reached just over 300km/hr on both our journeys. Breakfast served at our seats was very good. Arriving in Madrid by about midday we set out to expore the west side of the city which is the older part. A long walk westwards along Calle Atocha took us into the magnificent Plaza Mayor central square where we sat and enjoyed drinks watching the world go by. We'd read that we should vist the Mercado San Miguel but this wasn't a market any more but a very overcrowded food hall with no traditional market stalls. Beyond that we walked down to the Palacio Real but long entrance queues deterred us from going inside so we set off in search of lunch. We found a traditional looking restaurant called Las Cuevas de Luis Candelas and ventured inside to see if they could cope with Yolande's dietary requirements and were both pleased to get a positive response. We were taken down into the cellars that house the traditional and historical and very well appointed dining room. We enjoyed a great lunch with excellent service in the cellars where Luis Candelas, the famous highwayman, once based his operations from whilst robbing the rich to help the poor. Like Dick Turpin in York, Luis Candelas also met his fate at the gallows. It was a fabulous lunchtime experience and this restaurant is to be highly recommended. With about 4hrs before our train was due to depart we enjoyed a leisurely walk along Calle Alcala to Puert de Cibeles and the impressive Palacio de Cibeles Centrocentro. We walked around this colourful area before going to the Museo Naval which we looked around for an hour. This maritime museum was full of very interesting models and art exhibits. Back at the station in ample time for our 1925 train we found a quiet corner in a station cafe and made our drinks last until our platform was announced and we could pass through security onto our platform to board the train. As the train pulled out of the station our two cabin attendents came through with a drinks trolley to offer welcome drinks so we chose cava which was very nice. Soon we were running at 300km/hr as our light meal was served with generous amounts of a pleasant red wine. Before long we were slowing down into Zaragocia Delias Estacion and we disembarked only to have to wait twenty minutes for a taxi back to our hotel. Iryo trains are highly recommended and we both enjoyed the high speed train experience for our day trip to Madrid. september 28th: in zaragozaAfter a long and tiring day yesterday we enjoyed a lie in and a later breakfast but at 0900 the breakfast room was chaotic with staff barely able to cope. Nevertheless we enjoyed good omlettes with our fresh orange juice and coffee. Our first venture into town was to shop for some items to take home with us and we eventually found a very nice delicatessen where we made our purchases before taking them back to the hotel and or car. During this walk we completed a recce to our dinner venue for tonight: Distrio Mexico. Our second venture into town was more for an enjoyable walk, photography and lunch and walking alongside the river and old city walls led us to La Cocina de Keyla which turned out to be a Gluten Free restaurant which was very nicely appointed with quite a few tables occupied. Sadly it was an alcohol free restaurant but we both survived! We ordered three dishes to share and they were all very good: hummous, quiche and a pizza type dish. A highly recommended Gluten Free restaurant. Back at the hotel we sorted out our luggage ready for our morning departure tomorrow to Burgos. Distrio Mexico that evening was a bit of a disappointment in that the margaritas were far from what we'd normally expect and the three dishes we ordered were all a bit bland without a jalapeno in sight. september 29th: zaragoza to burgostI think we were on the road by 9am for our three hour drive to Burgos and, being a Sunday morning, the drive was quiet with not much traffic around. Almost at the hotel we were faced with barriers and road closures by the police which were a nightmare. On our second attempt we simply drove up to a barrier and negotiated our way through as our hotel was very close. The hotel car park was tight corners and narrow parking bays but we ended up on -2 where the bays were wider. Up at reception in this very nice looking hotel we were allocated Room 306 which was very well furnished and looked across the river to Burgos Cathedral. Our lunch with a drink was down in the very spacious lobby bar where one of the staff spoke fluent English and fully undersood Yolande's dietry requirements. Granada FC were checking out as we arrived. We spent the afternoon exploring Burgos with a lengthy visit into Burgos Cathedral which was very well looked after and had a heritage wing where we were reminded that this was the home of El Cid and we saw his coffin in the cathedral. On our way back to the hotel we passed a magnificent bronze statue of El Cid. We dined in the hotel restaurant that night and it was an enjoyable experience. There was no al a carte as it was a Sunday but the three course dinner was excellent. We then planned our route to the ferry terminal at Santander. september 30th: Burgos to santanderWe were up bright and early for breakfast but as we were finalising our packing Britanny Ferries emailed me to say the ferry would be delayed until tomorow at 1100, delayed inbound because of weather. I tried to book at the NH Hotel Santander but found it was already fully booked as ferry passengers all booked hotels there. Natalia on the front desk managed to secure a booking at the Bahia Hotel for us but at a cost of Euros 199 room only. Leaving Burgos behind the drive up to the Bahia Hotel in Santander took us a couple of hours on mostly quiet roads until we neared the coast. Access for our car into the underground car park was via a car lift which was a new experience for us but checking in was easy enough and we were soon in Room 611 which was quite spacious and with a harbour view. I think that, overall, the Bahia Hotel needed an upgrade as in our room, wallpaper was flaking off in a couple of places and the door stop had separated from the wall. Toiletries in the bathroom were quite basic and there were no brew facilities in the room. After our typical lunch on arrival in our hotels we went for a walk around Santander and recce'd a restaurant for our evening meal and this was the Cafe Suizo. There didn't seem to be much of interest for us to see in Santander so we went back to our hotel to relax. Dinner at the Cafe Suizo turned out to be a wise decision as my fish and chips was about the best I've ever experiennced. Yolande's entrecote steak was of a size I've never seen her tackle before. The service was warm and friendly and we were given a local liquer complimentary before we left for our hotel. A fabulous last night in Spain...... october 1st: santander to plymouthAwake at 0615 only to find that the Pont-Aven hadn't arrived yet so we went down for breakfast which turned out to be about the worst we'd experienced on this trip and on top of the euros 199 cost Euros 16 each on top. Checking out, it was up in the car lift and we were checked in at the ferry terminal within about 10 minutes of leaving the hotel. We were able to buy a coffee at the jetty cafe but it was so awful, I threw mine away. We drove onto the Pont-aven by about 0930 and soon found our way up to our delux cabin 8306 Ile d' Aiz - all the delux cabins are named after small French islands. The twin bed room was actually a quad room with a large sofa bed and a fourth bed hidden in the ceiling. We sailed by about 1130 and passed the cruise liner Ventura as we were leaving the harbour. After lunch we did our duty free shopping but by about 1430 vessel movement was increasing as waves from the west picked up to Force 6. With the vessel movement I thought it was time to be rocked gently to sleep and woke up an hour and a half later to find the seas had calmed down. For dinner in the main dining room we both opted for just two courses, missing out on a main as the buffet starter was quite comprehensive. We followed this with a shared plate of cheeses from the most amazing cheese selection I've ever seen. The Irish Coffee I finished off with was very enjoyable. october 2nd: santander to plymouth We woke after the Pont-Aven had berthed in Roscoff for the crew change and I went up on deck as the ship sailed. We went for a leisurely breakfast around 0900 and then relaxed in our cabin for the rest of the crossing to Plymouth. We docked by around 1330 but on our elevated car deck it seemed to take a while for the main deck to offload before our ramp could be lowered for us to disembark. Our car was selected for a search and we were told this was a random search for unauthorised persons and not because we might have purchased more than our allowances of duty free items. A four hour drive saw us arrive home after a truly enjoyable exploration of northeast Spain and Andorra.
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2021 OnwardsFollowing on from retirement, more time will be available for hill and mountain walking on a personal basis with friends. 
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