2025 morocco: ait ben haddou

Ait Ben Haddou is a historic ighrem or ksar along the former caravan route between the Sahara and Marrakech in Morocco - a UNESCO World heritage Site since 1987.

February 8th: Travel to Ait ben haddou from the kasbah du toubkal

I was packed for departure and after breakfast we had one last one hour training session on the LifeVac equipment for the hotel staff - they were unanimous in praising this new equipment. After saying farewells I walked down to the Kasbah du Toubkal office in Imlil. A mule transported my luggage and it soon arrived so Rashid, my driver, and I set off in the Mercedes Vito Minivan.

The 4hr journey was interesting and from Tahanaoute we headed east to join the very well surfaced N9 highway to the south. A stunning drive into the snow capped mountains reached a height of 2260m at the Col du Tichka where we stopped briefly for a photo opportunity. Only two weeks previously this mountain highway had been closed due to heavy snowfall.

Reaching Ait Ben Haddou, Rashid soon found the Dar Mouna Hotel for my 3 night stay. The welcome was warm and after a room viewing, I was upgraded to their best suite No. 17 with fabulous views over to the Ksar Ait Ben Haddou.

After briefly unpacking I headed over to the UNESCO World Heritage site which has featured in epic movies such as Lawrence of Arabia, The Man Who Would be King, Game of Thrones and, of course, Gladiator. I paid my MAD 20 entrance fee, valid for my entire stay and at the ancient gateway met a local guide, Nabil, and arranged for a tour the following morning. He is from one of the five families who reside in the site and who are fortunate to receive high incomes from film companies.

Back at the Dar Mouna I opted to dine in and enjoyed dinner there of cabbage soup, roast chicken followed by crepes. This was accompanied by my own gin and the hotel supplied tonic in this alcohol free town.

I enjoyed a very good night's sleep in my suite.

THE DAR MOUNA HOTEL - AIT BEN HADDOU

february 9th: in ait ben haddou

After a very good night's sleep I woke at around 0700 with the room feeling cold. When the Manager last night asked me if I'd like the air conditioning on, I hadn't realised the unit was also a heater. I drew my curtains to the most amazing view of the Ksar Ait Ben Haddou. It could only have been a better experience if I'd had an early morning tea but there are no brew kits here.

The shower was hot but the heat didn't last for long but I managed to do some washing and now have enough to get me home.

Breakfast was good with a nice hot omlette and plentiful other things to eat and ample supplies of hot coffee and hot milk.

Heading over to the Ksar I met Nabil for a very comprehensive tour of the site and his home for traditional tea where I met his mother. His English was fluent and knowledge of the site excellent. Being with him for almost two hours enabled excellent photographic opportunities and his fee of £20 was very much worth it. Towards the end of the tour I did some shopping for a few gifts to take back home.

Between my hotel and the main gateway there were a couple of camels available to ride. Their handler was very friendly and allowed me to photograph his two camels which were obviously very well cared for.

Back on this side of the river I opted for a pizza lunch at the La Terazza Italian restaurant which was run by a chef from Rome and his wife from Cassablanca. My Parma Ham Pizza was outstanding and one of the best pizzas I've ever enjoyed. A small ice cream followed which would be my one and ony ice cream in Morocco but a real treat!

Returning to Dar Mouna I wrote my blog and edited some images before going for a late afternoon walk. On the town minaret I noticed a huge nest but there was no sign of the storks. Mohammed, the hotel manager, told me there used to be many in the area but ony one pair are still to be seen in the area. I later saw them down by the river. I hope to photograph them in the morning before they fly off for the day to look for food.

Several gin and tonics on the terrace below my suite completed the day for me before I came upstairs to relax in my room. No dinner for me as I'm still quite full from my pizza lunch!

february 10th: in ait ben haddou

After a good night's sleep I went down for breakfast of the standard Moroccan fare but the very good coffee was a bonus with enough left over to fill my travel mug.

With my  camera equipment I walked back to the minaret where one stork was already perched on the nest. Across the road was a three storey cafe so I went in for a coffee and went up to the roof terrace to set up my tripod and long lens. For a long time there was only one stork visible but the partner eventually appeared for a good photo opportunity.

Back at the Dar Mouna I edited some picture and wrote my blog and then phoned Helen to discuss future work programmes. I think my call took her by suprise but with exchanging messages I thought it easiest to just phone her.

I walked across to the Ksar for one last walk and saw that a giant fabricated horse was being installed at a Greek looking temple which was under construction for a film production. Crossing the river I went into La Terrazza for an iced coffee and around 1230 ordered lunch of spaghetti bolognese which was very good. Several tables were occupied by film crew construction personnel from the UK.

​I spent the afternoon on my blog and editing pictures.

The last pair of Storks at Ait Ben Haddou

february 11th: travel to marrakech

The breakfast crew seemed slow to start but I was fed eventually and ready to depart, as planned, at 0900. I'd wanted to travel back on an alternative route to the Col du Titchka but for some reason the driver preferred to use the main N9 highway. The 4hr drive was spectacular through the mountains and we briefly stopped at the Col du Titchka for a photo and, at around the halfway point for a comfort stop.

Before leaving Ait Ben Haddou I'd asked Omar my driver if he knew where my riad was located in Marrakech and received a positive answer. Approaching the medina in Marrakech it was clear he was lost. At one point, quite some distance from the Riad Les Yeux Bleu he wanted to stop and get me a barrow boy for the rest of my journey. I connected my data roaming and navigated him for the rest of the journey.

I was warmly welcomed by Aminata the front desk manager at the Riad Les Yeux Bleu and allocated my favourite Room 12 where I'd stayed twice previously. I'd emailed her to ask for Room 12. It's a smaller room next to the swimming pool and once used to be a kitchen. The bed linen is always wonderful to get into and the en-suite has a fabulous shower.

I ordered lunch of a chicken sandwich and a couple of Casablanca Beers for a great lunchtime experience. Later on I walked through the souks into the main Jemaa el-Fnaa where market stalls and local street performers were hard at work trying to earn a living.

Aminata back at my riad had recommended an Indian restaurant in the Hotel Les Jardins de La Koutoubia so I went there for an early evening curry! Les Jardins de Bala provided "Cuisines d'Indie et d'Asie" and my meal was quite good but it generally lacked ambiance with waiters who weren't particularly professional.

​Back at my poolside room I ordered a very large tonic and finished off my gin before relaxing back in my room for a good night's sleep in a wonderfully comfortable bed.

february 12th: fly to lhr t2 via lis with TAP air portugal

Up for a cold morning breakfast on the rooftop but it was good, with great coffee, whilst sitting wrapped up against the cool morning air.

My transfer which the Kasbah had arranged and confirmed never arrived so the very efficient Aminata arranged for another one, a large Skoda complete with WiFi. I was soon checked in for my TP1453 and TP1358 flights to Lisbon and on to LHR T2 where Yolande was waiting for me at the Hilton Garden Inn and an overnight stay due to my late flight arrival.

From Marrakech the flight service was excellent and I was soon enjoying a gin and tonic and a light pasta meal. The steward laughed when I said it was the same meal that Helen and I had had last December. In Lisbon I had several hours to wait but the TAP lounge was very comfortable with a wide range of food to choose from including the Portugese custard tarts I like. The well stocked bar was quite comprehensive.

I flew TAP Air Portugal because BA couldn't offer return flights from LHR on the days I needed to travel. Flying out of LHR but back into LGW with BA wasn't an option I considered for very long!

The onward flight was good and after two hours or so the A320 Neo landed and I was soon through formalities and into Room 8009 in the Hilton Garden Inn which is a very nice hotel and which is directly connected to LHR T2.

Breakfast the following morning was good and we were home in Cardiff by midday.